Golf Tutorials

How to Assemble Golf Clubs

By Spencer Lanoue
July 24, 2025

Building your own set of golf clubs is one of the most rewarding projects a golfer can take on. This guide provides a complete, step-by-step walkthrough of the assembly process, from prepping your components to installing the final grip. We’ll cover every detail you need to go from a box of parts to a fully playable set of custom-built clubs sitting in your bag.

Why Assemble Your Own Golf Clubs?

Before we get our hands dirty, let's talk about the “why.” Assembling your own clubs isn't just a way to potentially save a few dollars, it's an incredible learning experience that connects you to your equipment on a much deeper level. When you know precisely how your clubs are weighted, balanced, and constructed, you gain a new layer of confidence and understanding that translates directly to the course.

Think about it this way: a chef who understands every ingredient and every step of the cooking process has more control over the final dish. It's the same for a golfer. When you build your clubs, you move beyond being just a player - you become a technician of your own game.

The process gives you ultimate control over every variable:

  • Shaft Selection: You can choose the exact shaft model, weight, and flex profile that matches your swing speed and feel preferences, often for less than custom upcharges.
  • Length and Lie: You can dial in the perfect length for your height and posture, which is fundamental for consistent contact. Adjusting lie angles is a more advanced step, but building from scratch gives you that foundation.
  • Grip Choice: Pick the exact grip size, texture, and material that feels best in your hands, rather than settling for the stock option.
  • Swing Weighting: You can learn to adjust the club's "feel" during the swing by adding tip weights, achieving a consistency across your set that many off-the-rack sets lack.

This isn't about becoming a master club fitter overnight. It's about taking the first step to remove the guesswork from your gear. You'll learn what makes a club feel "good" to you and develop a practical skill that will serve you for your entire golfing life.

Gathering Your Tools and Gearing Up

Having the right tools is the difference between a frustrating afternoon and a smooth, enjoyable build. You don’t need a Tour van's worth of equipment, but a few specific items are non-negotiable. Here's your shopping list for your home workshop.

Essential Tools & Supplies checklist:

  • Shaft Cutter: A high-speed abrasive chop saw with a reinforced cutting wheel is best for steel shafts. For graphite, a hacksaw with a fine-tooth blade (and lots of patience) works, but a dedicated graphite shaft cutter provides cleaner, safer results.
  • Epoxy: Use a high-strength, golf-specific two-part epoxy. Standard hardware store epoxies are not designed to withstand the violent impact of a golf swing. Look for epoxies with a shear strength of 2,500 psi or higher.
  • Grip Tape & Solvent: Two-sided grip tape and a non-flammable grip solvent are essentials for installing grips.
  • Utility Knife with a Hook Blade: A hook blade is the safest and most effective tool for removing old grips without scratching the shaft.
  • Bench Vise with a Rubber Shaft Clamp: You'll need this to hold the club securely while installing or removing grips. The rubber clamp protects the shaft from damage.
  • Propane Torch or Heat Gun: Necessary for breaking the epoxy bond if you need to pull a club head. A heat gun is safer for graphite shafts.
  • Abrasive Material: Sandpaper or a sanding belt is needed to abrade the shaft tip, creating a rough surface for the epoxy to bond to. 80-grit is a good starting point.
  • Safety Gear: ALWAYS wear safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask, especially when cutting or sanding shafts (carbon fiber dust is harmful).
  • Ruler or Tape Measure: For measuring cut lengths accurately. A metal yardstick is ideal.

Components Per Club:

  • Club Head: The engine of the club.
  • Shaft: The chassis. Ensure it's the correct tip diameter for your heads (.355" for taper tip irons, .370" for parallel tip irons/hybrids, .335" for most woods).
  • Grip: Your connection to the club.
  • Ferrule: The small plastic piece that provides a smooth transition between the shaft and the hosel of the head. It's purely cosmetic but a mark of a well-finished club.
  • (Optional) Tip Weights: Small weights to add inside the shaft tip to adjust the swing weight.

The Assembly Line: Step-by-Step Instructions

Alright, let’s get building. Lay out your components and tools in an organized fashion. I recommend working on one club from start to finish (excluding curing time) to get the process down before tackling the whole set.

1. Prepare the Work Area and Dry Fit

Before you touch any epoxy, do a "dry fit." Slide the ferrule onto the shaft tip. Then, slide the shaft into the hosel of the head. This gives you a feel for how the components fit together and confirms that your shaft tip diameter matches the head’s hosel bore. The ferrule should fit snugly but still be movable. The shaft should slide into the hosel easily without being too loose.

2. Prepare the Shaft Tip

This is arguably the most vital step for a strong, lasting bond. The goal is to remove the glossy outer layer of the shaft tip to expose the raw graphite or steel underneath, creating a textured surface for the epoxy to adhere to.

  • Measure the depth of the hosel on the club head.
  • Mark the shaft with a marker slightly less than that depth. For example, if the hosel is 1.25 inches deep, you will abrade about 1.1 inches of the tip. This prevents any sanded part of the shaft from being visible above the ferrule.
  • Using 80-grit sandpaper, carefully sand the tip of the shaft down to your mark. Rotate the shaft as you go to ensure you sand it evenly all the way around. For graphite, use a light touch to only remove the paint and gloss coat. For steel, you can be a bit more aggressive.
  • Once finished, wipe the sanded tip clean with isopropyl alcohol or acetone to remove any dust and oils. A clean surface is just as important as a rough one.

3. Mix and Apply the Epoxy

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific golf epoxy. Most are a 1:1 ratio of resin and hardener.

  • Squeeze out equal amounts of the two parts onto a disposable surface (a piece of cardboard works great).
  • Mix them thoroughly for at least 60 seconds until you have a uniform color. Don't whip the mixture, as this can introduce air bubbles that weaken the bond. Fold it over on itself.
  • Apply a thin, even coat of epoxy around the entire abraded tip of the shaft. Then, apply a small amount just inside the hosel of the club head. A common mistake is to use way too much epoxy. This excess will just be forced up and out of the hosel, creating a huge mess. You just need enough to coat the surfaces.

4. Install the Ferrule and Set the Head

With the epoxy applied, it's time to bring it all together.

  • Slide the ferrule onto the epoxy-coated tip and down the shaft, well out of the way.
  • Insert the shaft into the club head's hosel. As you push it in, give it a slight twisting motion to ensure the epoxy spreads evenly throughout the joint.
  • Gently but firmly tap the butt end of the club on the floor a few times. This will ensure the shaft is fully seated at the bottom of the hosel. You’ll feel a solid "thud" when it's all the way in.
  • Orient the shaft so in the playing position, any graphics are aligned how you prefer (e.g., logo up or logo down).
  • Clean up any excess epoxy that has squeezed out around the top of the hosel with a rag and some solvent. It's much easier to clean now when it's wet than after it has cured.
  • Finally, slide the ferrule down until it is flush against the top of the hosel. A simple block of wood with a hole drilled in it can be used to GENTLY tap the ferrule into its final position. You may need to clean up a final bit of epoxy.

5. Let it Cure

Patience is everything here. Leave the club to cure for the time recommended by the epoxy manufacturer, which is typically 18-24 hours. Stand the club upright in a corner, head down, so gravity helps keep the components together. Don't be tempted to wiggle it or swing it early - you'll weaken the bond permanently.

6. Cut the Shaft to Playing Length

Once the epoxy is fully cured, you can cut the shaft to your desired playing length.

  • Decide on your final club length. Standard lengths are a good starting point if you're unsure. A typical 5-iron for men is 38 inches, with ½ inch increments between clubs.
  • Place the club in the playing position and use your ruler or yardstick to measure from the ground (at the sole) up the shaft to your desired length.
  • Mark the cutting point on the butt end of the shaft with a marker.
  • Securely clamp the club below your mark and make your cut. For graphite shafts, wrap the cutting line with masking tape to help prevent splintering. Remember the golden rule: measure twice, cut once.

7. Install the Grip

The final step! This process can be tricky the first time, but you’ll quickly get the hang of it.

  • Clamp the club in your vise using the rubber shaft clamp. Secure it toward the butt end of the club.
  • Apply a strip of the two-sided grip tape, leaving about a half-inch of overhang at the butt end. Peel off the backing and twist the overhanging tape, tucking it inside the shaft opening. This prevents solvent from getting inside the shaft.
  • Pour a generous amount of solvent over the entire length of the tape. Swirl it around to make sure it’s completely wetted.
  • Pour a little solvent inside the new grip. Cover the vent hole with your finger and shake it up to coat the entire inner surface.
  • Pour the excess solvent from the grip over the tape. This is a messy step, so have a drip pan ready underneath.
  • Working quickly while the tape is activated, align the opening of the grip with the butt end of the shaft and push it on with one smooth, swift motion. Don't hesitate.
  • Adjust the alignment of the grip so it's perfectly straight, using the markings on the grip as a guide. You have about a minute or two to do this before the tape starts to set.

Let the grip dry for a few hours before swinging, and you're done! Stand back and admire your work. You've just built a custom golf club.

Final Thoughts

Assembling your own golf clubs moves you from a passive consumer to an active participant in your own game improvement. This hands-on process gives you a complete understanding of how your equipment functions, providing a solid foundation of confidence every time you step up to the ball.

Building your own clubs gives you granular control over your physical equipment. When you’re ready for that same level of control over your mental game and on-course strategy, we built Caddie AI to be your personal coach and caddie. You can get instant, expert advice on any shot, analyze a tough lie with a photo, or ask any question about the game, helping you remove the guesswork so you can play smarter and with more confidence.

Spencer has been playing golf since he was a kid and has spent a lifetime chasing improvement. With over a decade of experience building successful tech products, he combined his love for golf and startups to create Caddie AI - the world's best AI golf app. Giving everyone an expert level coach in your pocket, available 24/7. His mission is simple: make world-class golf advice accessible to everyone, anytime.

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