How to Change a Driver Shaft in Golf

Switching out the shaft on your driver is one the most impactful equipment changes a golfer can make, capable of completely transforming its feel and performance. Whether you have a newer, adjustable driver or an older, glued-in model, this guide will walk you through exactly how to do it. We'll cover both the simple, modern method and the more traditional club-building process so you can get the job done right.

Why Bother Changing Your Driver Shaft?

You can have the most advanced, forgiving driver head on the market, but if it’s paired with the wrong shaft for your swing, it will never perform its best. The shaft is the engine of the golf club, and matching it to your tendencies can make a world of difference. It’s not just about a broken shaft, it’s about optimizing performance. Here’s a quick look at the factors you’re influencing:

• Flex and Profile: This determines how the shaft bends during your swing. A shaft that's too stiff for your swing speed generally leads to a lower ball flight and trouble closing the face, often resulting in pushes or slices. A shaft that’s too soft can feel "whippy," launch the ball too high, and lead to pulls or hooks as the head snaps shut too quickly.
• Weight: Shaft weight influences your overall swing feel and tempo. A lighter shaft can help you generate more clubhead speed, but some players find heavier shafts offer more stability and control, preventing them from getting too quick in their transition.
• Kick Point: Also known as the bend profile, this is the area where the shaft flexes the most. A high kick point (closer to the grip) tends to produce a lower, more piercing ball flight. A low kick point (closer to the clubhead) helps get the ball up in the air much more easily.
• Torque: This measures how much the shaft resists twisting. Lower torque shafts offer a stout, stable feel and can help players who want to minimize gear effect on mishits. Higher torque can feel a little softer or "smoother" to some players.

Finding the right combination of these elements for your game is the whole point of a shaft change. It allows you to fine-tune your launch angle, spin rate, and shot shape without having to buy a completely new driver.

Part 1: The Easy Way - Changing a Shaft on a Modern Adjustable Driver

If your driver was made in the last 10-15 years, chances are it has an adjustable hosel. This system was designed specifically to make shaft swapping quick and painless, just like the pros do on the range before a tournament. If you have the right tool, this is a two-minute job.

Tools You'll Need

Honestly, you just need one thing: the specific torque wrench that came with your driver or a compatible one from the same brand (e.g., Titleist, TaylorMade, Callaway, etc.). While some are interchangeable, using the correct brand-specific wrench is always the best practice to prevent stripping the screw.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Here’s how to do it. It’s so simple you’ll wonder why you ever hesitated.

1. Step 1: Get Stable. The easiest way to start is to place the driver head on the floor, sole-down. This props the head up and keeps it stable so you can apply torque without it wiggling around.
2. Step 2: Insert the Wrench. Take your wrench and fit the star-shaped bit into the matching screw on the sole of the club, near the hosel.
3. Step 3: Loosen the Screw. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise (remember: "lefty-loosey"). The first turn is often met with a "snap" or "crack" sound as the factory seal breaks. Don't be alarmed, this is completely normal! Continue unscrewing until the screw turns freely.
4. Step 4: Separate Head from Shaft. Pull the clubhead straight off the shaft's adapter tip. Sometimes a little wiggle is needed if it's snug, but it should slide off without much force.
5. Step 5: Install the New Shaft. Take your new shaft (which must have the correct adapter for your driver brand already installed) and line it up with the hosel. Before you insert it, check the desired setting on the adapter. Most have settings like "Standard," "+1 Loft," "Draw," etc. Align your chosen setting with the marker on the hosel of the clubhead and slide it on.
6. Step 6: Tighten The Screw. Insert the screw back into the head and start turning it clockwise ("righty-tighty"). You’ll feel it start to get snug.
7. Step 7: The "Click" Is Your Friend. This is the most important step! Continue tightening until the torque wrench makes an audible "CLICK". This sound tells you that the correct amount of torque has been applied. It's properly secured. Do not tighten it any further! Overtightening can damage the hosel or the screw. A single click is all you need.

That’s it! You've successfully changed your driver shaft. Go ahead and take it to the range to feel the difference.

Part 2: The Old-School Method - Removing a Glued-In Shaft

If you have an older driver without an adjustable hosel or you're getting into building clubs yourself, you'll need to use heat to break the epoxy bond holding the shaft in place. This is a more involved process that requires more tools and a bit of patience, but it's very rewarding to learn.

A friendly word of caution: You are working with heat, so an open, well-ventilated space is important. Safety glasses are also a very good idea.

Tools and Supplies Needed

For Removal:

• Heat Source: A high-powered heat gun is the safest option for beginners as it reduces the risk of damaging the head's paint. A propane or butane torch is much faster but requires careful, constant movement to avoid scorching the clubhead or ferrule.
• Shaft Clamp and Vise: A heavy-duty vise to hold the club, and a rubber shaft clamp to protect the shaft from being crushed.
• Safety Gear: Heat-resistant gloves and safety glasses.
• Optional (But Recommended): A shaft puller. This contraption applies even, steady pressure to pull the head off without twisting motion, significantly increasing the odds you can safely reuse the old shaft. If you don't use one, you risk snapping the graphite fibers.

For Installation:

• Shafting Epoxy: A high-strength, two-part epoxy specifically made for golf clubs.
• A New Ferrule: This is the little plastic ring that provides a smooth transition from the hosel to the shaft. It's best to use a new one every time.
• Prep Tools: Sandpaper (80-120 grit) or an abrading tool to rough-up the shaft tip.
• Cleaning Supplies: Acetone or another fast-drying solvent and paper towels.
• Mixing Materials: A small dish and a stick (like a popsicle stick) for mixing the epoxy.

Step-by-Step Removal Process

1. Secure the Club: Place the rubber clamp around the shaft just below the grip and secure the club in your vise with the head pointing upwards.
2. Remove the Ferrule: Carefully apply heat to the old ferrule and use a utility knife or a stripping tool to cut it away.
3. Apply Heat to the Hosel: This is where the magic happens. Aim your heat gun or torch directly at the hosel (the part of the head that the shaft goes into). Do not heat the shaft itself. Keep the heat source moving constantly around all sides of the hosel to distribute it evenly. This usually takes 60-90 seconds with a heat gun or about 20-30 seconds with a torch. You’ll often smell the epoxy getting hot.
4. Twist and Pull: Put on your heat-resistant glove. Grip the clubhead firmly and begin to gently twist it back and forth. You’ll feel the epoxy bond start to break down and become gooey. Once it turns, you can pull the head straight off the shaft. (Remember, a shaft puller is the better way to do this if you care about saving the old shaft).
5. Clean Out the Hosel: Inside the hosel, you’ll find a lot of old epoxy residue. Use a wire brush attachment on a drill or a small scraping tool to clean every last bit of it out. For a strong new bond, a clean hosel is non-negotiable. Finish by wiping the inside with a solvent-soaked paper towel.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

1. Prep the New Shaft: First, slide your new ferrule onto the tip of the new shaft. Push it down a couple of inches to get it out of the way.
2. Abrade the Shaft Tip: Measure how deep your driver's hosel is. Then, use sandpaper to rough up that amount of the shaft tip (usually about 1 to 1.5 inches). This creates a textured surface that the epoxy can grab onto.
3. Wipe Both Surfaces Clean: Use acetone or another solvent to wipe down both the abraded shaft tip and the inside of the hosel one final time. From this point on, don't touch these surfaces with your bare hands.
4. Mix the Epoxy: Squeeze out equal parts of your two-part epoxy onto a small mixing tray. Mix them together thoroughly for about a minute until the color is completely uniform.
5. Apply the Epoxy: Use your mixing stick to apply a thin, even coat of epoxy over the entire abraded area of the shaft tip. It helps to add a little ring of epoxy just inside the top of the hosel as well.
6. Insert the Shaft: Slowly and gently insert the epoxied shaft tip into the hosel. Use a slight back-and-forth twisting motion as you push it in to ensure the epoxy spreads evenly. Push it until the shaft bottoms out inside the hosel.
7. Position and Align: Stand the club up and orient the clubhead so it’s perfectly square. Then, rotate the shaft so any logos or graphics are aligned as you prefer (logo up, logo down, etc.).
8. Set the Ferrule: While the epoxy is still wet, push the ferrule down until it sits perfectly flush against the top of the hosel. Use a paper towel with a bit of solvent to wipe away any excess epoxy that has squeezed out around the seam.
9. Let It Cure: Stand the club in a secure corner, head-down, where it won't be disturbed. Let it cure for the full recommended time, which is typically 18-24 hours. Don't be tempted to waggle it!

Once it’s fully cured, it’s ready for a grip and a trip to the course.

Final Thoughts

Knowing how to change your own driver shaft is a fantastic skill for any golfer. For modern adjustable drivers, it’s a quick task that lets you experiment with different setups in minutes. The traditional glue-in method is more of a project, but it gives you total control over assembling your equipment and is immensely satisfying to master.

Once you have that new shaft dialed in, knowing when and how to use your driver on the course is the next piece of producing great results. That's a big reason I developed our app, Caddie AI. If you're on a tee box feeling uncertain about your strategy, you can describe the hole or even snap a photo of a tricky lie, and we’ll give you a simple, smart plan. The goal is to remove the guesswork, letting you commit to every swing - especially with your newly customized driver.