How to Fix a Golf Club Head

A loose, rattling club head is one of the most disheartening sounds in golf. That slight wobble or clicking noise tells you that your favorite driver or trusted 7-iron is on its last legs. But before you banish it to the garage corner or budget for a brand new club, know that fixing a club head is often a simple, satisfying, and very manageable DIY project. This guide will walk you through the most common repairs, from re-securing a loose head to cleaning up cosmetic blemishes, giving you the confidence to get your go-to club back in action.

Is Your Club Head Safe to Repair? A Quick Check

Before you get out the tools, it's good to know when a DIY fix is the right move and when it’s time to visit a professional club repair shop. Most issues are perfectly fixable at home, but a few warning signs mean you should probably get a second opinion.

A DIY fix is great for:

• A club head that is slightly loose or twisting.
• A head that has completely and cleanly separated from the shaft.
• Cosmetic issues like small scratches or "sky marks" on the crown of a wood or driver.

You should see a pro if you notice:

• A cracked hosel: The hosel is the part of the club head where the shaft is inserted. If you see any hairline fractures or cracks in this area, the head is likely compromised and unsafe. Re-epoxying won't solve this structural problem.
• A bent shaft: If the shaft itself is bent, particularly near the head, it needs replacement. trying to bend it back will weaken it and change its performance characteristics.
• Splintered graphite: If you have a graphite shaft that looks splintered or frayed at the tip, be extremely careful. While some light prep sanding is normal, deep splinters can compromise the shaft's integrity. A pro can trim it properly if there's enough length, but it's a delicate operation.

If your club passes this initial inspection, congratulations! Let's get to work.

The Most Common Fix: Re-Epoxying a Loose or Detached Club Head

The vast majority of loose or separated club heads are due to one thing: a failed epoxy bond. The glue that holds the head to the shaft has simply broken down over time, often from impacts, torsion, or even being stored in extreme temperatures (like a hot car trunk). The fix is to remove the old, failed epoxy and create a new, strong bond. It sounds technical, but it’s a straightforward process if you follow the steps.

Part 1: Gathering Your Toolkit

Having the right supplies on hand makes the job smooth and easy. You don’t need a full workshop, just a few key items:

• Golf Club Epoxy: This is a must. Don't use standard hardware store super glue or five-minute epoxy. Golf-specific epoxy is engineered to withstand the huge torsional forces and repeated impacts of a golf swing. Most are two-part formulas and many are "quick-set," but still require a full 24 hours to cure completely.
• Heat Source: A heat gun is the best and safest tool for this job. A small propane torch can also work, but requires much more care and attention to avoid damaging the club head's finish or overheating a graphite shaft.
• Safety Gear: Gloves and safety glasses are always a good idea when working with heat and chemicals.
• Cleaning and Prep Tools:
  • A Utility Knife: To cut off the old ferrule.
  • Sandpaper or a Wire Brush: For cleaning the shaft tip and the inside of the hosel. A small wire brush that fits on a drill can make cleaning the hosel effortless.
  • Isopropyl Alcohol: (Rubbing alcohol) for degreasing and cleaning the surfaces before applying the new epoxy.
  • Paper Towels or a Rag: For cleanup.
• A Shaft Clamp and Vice (Recommended): Holding the shaft securely in a vice with a rubber shaft clamp makes the whole process much easier and safer. If you don't have one, you can do it by hand, but you’ll need to be extra careful.
• A New Ferrule: This is the little black plastic ring that smooths the transition from the hosel to the shaft. It's mostly cosmetic, but you'll almost certainly have to break the old one to get it off. They’re inexpensive and available online or at golf repair shops.

Part 2: Step-by-Step Guide to Removing the Old Head and Prepping the Shaft

Proper preparation is what creates a strong, lasting bond. Don’t rush this part. A clean surface is your best friend.

1. Apply Heat Gently. Clamp the club in your vice if you have one. If the head is still attached, put on your gloves and glasses. Using your heat gun on a medium setting, apply heat evenly around the hosel. Keep the gun moving to avoid concentrating heat in one spot. This is especially important for graphite shafts, which can be damaged by excessive heat. After about 30-60 seconds, check the bond.
2. Remove the Head. Put a cloth pad or an old oven mitt over the club head (it will be hot!) and gently try to twist it off the shaft. If it doesn't budge, apply a little more heat and try again. Be patient. It will eventually loosen its grip. If your head was already detached, you can skip this step.
3. Clean the Hosel. Once the head is off, you'll see a lot of old, crusty epoxy inside the hosel. This all needs to come out. Use a wire brush (or a drill bit slightly smaller than the hosel's diameter, spun by hand) to scrape and scour the inside until it's clean metal.
4. Clean the Shaft Tip. Now do the same for the shaft tip. You will likely have to cut off the old plastic ferrule with a utility knife first. Be careful not to score or cut the shaft itself. Then, use sandpaper or a blade to scrape away every last trace of the old epoxy. Lightly abrade the surface of the shaft tip (about an inch and a half) with sandpaper to create a slightly rough texture, which helps the new epoxy grip.
5. Final Degrease. The final prep step is to clean both the inside of the hosel and the prepped shaft tip with a paper towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. This removes any oils, dust, or residue that could weaken the new bond. Let them air dry completely.

Part 3: The Assembly – Putting It All Back Together

This is the fun part. You’re minutes away from a brand new, solid connection.

1. Install the New Ferrule. Slide the new ferrule over the shaft tip and push it up the shaft, well out of the way. You’ll slide it down into its final position later.
2. Mix Your Epoxy. Follow the instructions on your epoxy package. Squeeze out equal parts of the two formulas onto a disposable surface (like a piece of cardboard) and mix them together thoroughly with a stir stick or old nail. Don’t eyeball it, be precise.
3. Apply the Epoxy. Apply a thin, even coat of the mixed epoxy all arund the prepped shaft tip. It’s also a good idea to put a little bit just inside the hosel opening. You don't need to gob it on, a smooth, complete coating is better than a thick, messy one.
4. Install and Align the Head. Slowly insert the epoxied shaft tip into the hosel. As you push it in, give it a slight twist to help spread the epoxy evenly. Push it until the shaft bottoms out inside the hosel. Now, the important part: align the club head. Stand over it as if you were addressing a ball and make sure the face is perfectly square relative to the graphics on the grip or shaft.
5. Seat the Ferrule and Clean Up. With the head correctly aligned, slide the ferrule down the shaft until it sits snugly against the top of the hosel. Use a paper towel with a bit more alcohol to wipe away any excess epoxy that has squeezed out.
6. Let It Cure! This might be the most challenging step: be patient. Stand the club upright in a corner with the head down, so gravity helps keep the connection secure. Do not touch it, wiggle it, or - whatever you do - swing it. Let it cure for a full 24 hours, even if it’s a quick-set epoxy. This ensures the bond reaches maximum strength.

Fixing Those Unsightly Scratches and Sky Marks

Cosmetic issues won't affect performance, but seeing a clean club head at address can do wonders for your confidence. A couple of simple fixes can restore the look of your clubs.

Light Scratches on Irons and Wedges

For minor scuffs and surface scratches on chrome-finished irons, you can often buff them out. Take a pad of very fine #0000 steel wool and some chrome polish or car wax. Gently rub the affected area in a circular motion. This will polish the surface and can make many of the smaller scratches disappear. Be gentle so you don't ruin the finish.

"Sky Marks" on Drivers and Woods

A sky mark is a white scuff on the top of your driver or wood from hitting the ball too high on the face. To fix it, first clean the crown with soap and water. Then, try a non-abrasive auto polishing compound. Apply a small amount to a microfiber cloth and gently buff the mark. Often, this is enough to remove the paint transfer from the ball. If the scratch is deeper and has removed the club's paint, your best bet is to find automotive touch-up paint that is a very close match to your club's color. Apply a tiny amount with the fine-tipped brush, let it dry, and then lightly buff it. It makes a world of difference.

Final Thoughts

Fixing a golf club, whether you're re-setting a loose head or just cleaning up a few battle scars, is a skill that connects you to your equipment. With a little patience and the right materials, you can confidently save your favorite club a from retirement, save a little money, and feel a sense of pride every time you pull it from the bag.

While fixing your equipment is a great skill, having the right strategy for that equipment is just as important. Knowing when and how to use that perfectly repaired 7-iron is how you truly lower your scores. Sometimes, what feels like an equipment issue can actually be a small strategy gap. Our goal with Caddie AI is to close that gap. After you've spent the time to get your gear in perfect shape, you can get instant advice on club selection or the best way to play the hole, ensuring you’re using your restored club with complete confidence.