Learning how to properly glue a golf shaft is a surprisingly satisfying skill that can save you time and money. It puts you in control of your equipment and deepens your connection to the game. This guide will walk you through the entire process, step-by-step, removing the guesswork and giving you the confidence to reshaft a club like a pro in your own garage.
There's nothing worse than starting a project only to realize you're missing a key component. Before you begin, let's get organized. Having everything laid out and ready to go makes the process smooth and stress-free. Here’s a simple checklist of what you'll need:
If you take one thing away from this guide, let it be this: your prep work determines the quality and safety of your finished club. A strong, reliable bond is built on clean, properly prepared surfaces. A weak bond comes from skipping this step. Don't be tempted to rush it. This is where a professional job is separated from a failed attempt.
The hosel is the opening in the club head where the shaft is inserted. If you're reshafting an old club, it's probably full of old epoxy and other gunk. All of that has to go.
The easiest way to do this is to use a wire hosel brush attached to a power drill. Insert the brush into the hosel and run the drill for a few seconds. You want to scour the inside walls until they are shiny and completely free of any old adhesive. If you don't have a drill and brush, you can roll up a piece of sandpaper and work it around with your fingers, but the brush and drill combo is much more effective.
Once you’ve scoured the hosel, give it a final clean. Dip a paper towel in your solvent and use a stick or dowel to wipe out all the dust and debris you just loosened. You want the inside of that hosel to be pristine.
New golf shafts have a smooth, often chrome or painted finish at the tip. Epoxy won't stick well to a smooth surface. We need to create a rough texture for the glue to grab onto. This is called abrading.
Measure how deep the club head's hosel is. Then mark that same distance on the tip of the shaft, plus an extra quarter inch. This is the area you need to abrade. You can wrap a piece of tape around the shaft just above your mark to create a clean stopping point.
Now, take your sandpaper (or use a belt sander if you have one) and systematically remove the paint or chrome finish from that prepared section. You aren't trying to remove shaft material, just the shiny coating. Rotate the shaft as you go to ensure you rough up the entire circumference. When you're done, the tip should have a dull, matte grey appearance. Once abraded, give it a quick wipe with your solvent to remove any dust and let it dry completely.
Before you even think about grabbing the epoxy, let’s do a dry run. A dry fit helps you spot any potential issues before it's too late. It provides valuable feedback on how the club feels and gives some useful indicators for other details in these instructions.
First, slide the ferrule onto the shaft tip. You will notice it can be tough to just push it right on. That's by design. If it's a tight fit, you can warm it gently with a heat gun or in hot water for a minute to make it more pliable. Push it up the shaft. We'll adjust the final positioning later on in the process. We just need it to get to the location where we will be needing it in these steps to come.
Next, insert the prepped shaft into the clean hosel. Push it all the way down until it bottoms out. Give the club a waggle. Does it feel solid? Look at how the ferrule lines up with the top of the hosel. Does the club look right at the address position? Take a moment to check your shaft's graphics - if you want the logo to be facing up or down at address, now is the time to orient it. This is your last chance to make adjustments without making a mess.
Now for the fun part. Put on your safety glasses, and prepare to mix your epoxy according to the manufacturer's instructions. This is one of those times where precision counts. A lot.
Squeeze out equal amounts of the two parts onto your mixing surface. Many people get this step wrong. Don't eyeball it, be precise. Using too much of one part will result in a weak bond that will fail over time.
Use your mixing stick and stir the two parts together thoroughly for at least a full minute. Scrape the sides and bottom of the puddle to make sure it's fully integrated. You’ll know it’s ready when it has a consistent, uniform grey color with no streaks.
Once mixed, use the stick to apply a thin-but-thorough layer of epoxy to the abraded tip of the shaft. You don’t need to glob it on, a light coating is perfect. For the hosel, apply a small ring of epoxy around the inside edge. When you insert the shaft, it will spread the epoxy down and completely around the entire hosel, creating the perfect 360-degree wall to seal your club in a sturdy and solid manner.
With the epoxy applied, it's a pretty straightforward process from here. Simply start to install the ferrule and then gently push towards the hosel while using a twisting motion to lower and insert the shaft into the head. The twisting helps make sure your epoxy is evenly distributed to create the strongest bond possible for your project.
Make sure the shaft bottoms out completely inside the hosel. A good technique is to hold the head and tap the butt end of the shaft gently on the floor a few times. This will set your shaft in place and force any small, extra air bubbles out, giving you that professional fit. You can also lightly turn the shaft to ensure it does not leave the resting position while checking the logo and any other adjustments to your fit.
Some epoxy will likely squeeze out around the top of the hosel. Simply wipe it away clean with a paper towel and solvent for that professional finished look. After things dry, now is a great time to ensure everything looks how you originally envisioned it and to make final inspections on the entire club's features at all of its various jointed points.
I know it's exciting, but don't even think about swinging your new club yet. The epoxy needs time to cure so everything we have taken the time to get right stays that way. Setting and curing are two very different processes. For example, epoxy will often "set" in 1-2 hours and might feel solid to the touch, but if it hasn't fully "cured," it cannot possibly support the power generated by swinging a golf club as part of your course routine. Don’t ever test it at this stage. It won’t pass, and it can only end in failure.
Stand the club upright in a corner, with the head down or up to dry. Just ensure it's placed in a quiet state so it can remain undisturbed for the length of time stated by the manufacturer's recommendations. For any golf epoxies, this is typically around 24 hours.
Building and repairing your own golf clubs is a truly rewarding skill that you'll be able to tap into for years to come anytime you desire. While it may seem complicated from the outside, gluing a shaft really boils down to having a few foundational steps and a structured process when approaching each of those given steps in order. With some decent preparation and a bit of patience, you will get the best results possible, creating a perfectly fit driver specifically designed for you - all inside of your own home. And if you're like me, you’ll love it for more than the result, you will love it for the process itself.
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