Nothing feels better than standing over a 100-yard shot, knowing you have the perfect swing to stick it close to the pin. This scoring distance can be the difference between a good round and a great one, yet it trips up many golfers. This guide will give you a clear, step-by-step plan to master the 100-yard golf shot, covering everything from club selection and setup to the precise swing mechanics needed for consistency and accuracy.
Why the 100-Yard Shot is So Important
Think about your last few rounds. How many times did you leave yourself with a shot from between 80 and 120 yards? This is the "scoring zone." A solid tee shot or a good layup on a par 5 will often land you here. If you can confidently hit this shot, you’ll trade bogeys for pars and pars for birdies. It's not about raw power, it's about control, finesse, and repeatability. Dialing in this distance is one of the fastest and most effective ways to slash strokes from your score.
The problem is, it's an awkward distance for many. It's often too short for a full swing with one club and too long for a simple "feel" chip with another. This hesitancy leads to bad decisions and even worse swings. But with the right approach and practice, you can turn this area of weakness into a serious weapon in your arsenal.
Choosing the Right Club from 100 Yards
The first decision you make, choosing your club, sets the stage for the rest of the shot. There is no single "correct" club for 100 yards - it depends entirely on a few factors:
- Your Personal Distances: This is the most important factor. Someone who hits their pitching wedge 135 yards will use a different club than someone who hits it 115 yards. You need to know how far you hit each wedge with a smooth, controlled swing, not an all-out heave. The most common clubs for this shot are the Gap Wedge (GW), Sand Wedge (SW), and Pitching Wedge (PW).
- Course Conditions: The environment plays a huge role.
- Wind: Is it a helping breeze or hurting wind? A tailwind might let you take one less club, while a headwind demands more club and a lower, more controlled flight.
- Lie: Is the ball sitting up nicely in the fairway, or is it in the rough? A fluffy lie might cause a "flyer" where the ball comes out hot with less spin, so you might need a club with more loft. From a tight fairway lie, a lower-lofted club might be easier to strike cleanly.
- Elevation: Are you hitting uphill or downhill? An uphill shot plays longer, requiring more club. A downhill shot plays shorter, requiring less club.
- Pin Position: Where is the flag on the green? If it's tucked behind a bunker, you’ll want a higher, softer shot to carry the trouble. If the pin is in the back of the green with lots of room to run, a lower-trajectory shot (using a less-lofted club with a smaller swing) can be an easier and safer play.
The "Partial Swing" Philosophy
A good rule of thumb is to avoid hitting a full, 100% power shot with your most-lofted club (like a sand wedge). Smashing a wedge often creates too much spin and a high, ballooning ball flight that's hard to control, especially in the wind. Instead, consider taking a less-lofted club (like a gap or pitching wedge) and making a shorter, more controlled swing. A three-quarter swing with a pitching wedge is often far more controllable and consistent than an all-out swing with a sand wedge.
The 100-Yard Setup: Building Your Foundation
Your setup for this shot should feel athletic, stable, and ready for rotation. It’s slightly different from your full-swing setup because the goal is control, not maximum distance. Many players get this wrong by simply using their driver setup for every shot.
1. Stance Width and Weight
Get your feet setup slightly narrower than shoulder-width apart. A wide stance is for power and stability in a big swing, here, we want precision. A narrower stance makes it easier to rotate your body through the shot without swaying. Your weight should be balanced 50/50 between your feet, or maybe with a slight 55/45 favor toward your front foot to encourage a downward strike on the ball.
2. Ball Position
For a standard wedge shot from a good lie, the ball should be positioned in the absolute center of your stance. Imagine a line running down from your shirt buttons or zipper to the ground - that's where the ball should be. This places the ball at the low point of your swing arc, promoting a clean, ball-first strike.
3. Posture and Arm Hang
This is where many golfers feel self-conscious but where consistency is born. Bend forward from your hips, not your waist, and stick your bottom out. Keep your back relatively straight as you tilt over. This posture allows your arms to hang naturally straight down from your shoulders. If your arms are crammed into your body or reaching way out, your posture is off. Let them hang freely - this promotes a fluid, arm-and-body-connected swing.
4. Grip and Hand Position
Take your normal grip, but consider gripping down on the club an inch or so. Choking down shortens the club, effectively giving you more control and slightly reducing the distance, which is perfect for these "in-between" shots.
The Swing: Finesse, Tempo, and Rotation
Remember the main idea from our simple golf swing guide: the golf swing is a rotational action of the golf club that moves around the body. It is powered by your torso, not by an up-and-down chopping motion with your arms. This concept is even more pronounced on a 100-yard shot.
The Backswing: Think "Clock" System
This isn't a full, to-the-heavens backswing. The key to controlling distance is controlling the length of your backswing. A fantastic way to think about this is using the "clock system." Imagine you're standing in the center of a clock face.
- A half-swing is when your lead arm (left arm for right-handers) is parallel to the ground, pointing to 9 o'clock.
- A three-quarter swing is when your lead arm gets to about 10 o'clock.
- A full swing would be closer to 11 or 12 o'clock.
For a 100-yard shot, start by practicing a 9 o'clock backswing. As your torso turns back, allow your wrists to hinge naturally. Don't force the hinge, but don't restrict it either. The turn of your chest and hips should be the engine of the backswing, the arms and club are just along for the ride. The goal is to stay centered, rotating inside that imaginary "cylinder" without swaying off the ball.
The Downswing: Sequence is Everything
From the top of your controlled backswing, the motion should feel smooth and unhurried. The mistake almost everyone makes is to rush down with their arms and hands to "hit" the ball.
Instead, the downswing starts from the ground up. The first move is a slight shift of your weight and pressure to your front foot. This move gets you in position to strike down on the ball. Immediately after that shift, your hips and torso begin to unwind and rotate toward the target. Your arms and the club will naturally drop into the slot, lagging behind your body's rotation. Let gravity help! You're not pulling the club down, you're allowing the rotation of your body to deliver it to the ball.
Impact and Follow-Through: Turning to a Balanced Finish
The feeling at impact should be one of "covering" the ball with your chest as you turn through. You want to make contact with the ball first, and then the turf after. This "ball-then-turf" contact compresses the ball, giving you a pure strike with predictable spin and distance. You are not trying to lift or scoop the ball into the air - the loft of the club does that job for you.
Just like the backswing, the follow-through should be controlled. As your body rotates through, let your arms extend towards the target and then finish rotating around your body to a balanced, comfortable finish. On a three-quarter wedge shot, your hands will likely finish around shoulder height, pointing toward the target. Hold your finish! Your chest and belt buckle should be facing the target, with most of your weight (around 90%) on your front foot. Holding your balance is a sign of a well-sequenced, efficient swing.
Two Drills to Master the 100-Yard Shot
Reading about it is one thing, feeling it is another. Take these two drills to the range to engrain these concepts.
- The Clock System Yardage Drill: Take your pitching wedge. Hit ten balls with a firm 9 o'clock backswing. After you hit, walk out to find where the balls are grouped and get your average distance. Now, do the same with a 10 o'clock backswing. Learning what these different backswing lengths produce (with the same smooth tempo!) gives you multiple yardages with a single club.
- The Towel Drill: To practice that perfect ball-first contact, lay a towel down on the ground about one foot behind your golf ball. The goal is to hit the ball without hitting the towel on your downswing. This drill forces you to shift your weight forward and create a descending blow, preventing you from "scooping" or hitting the ball thin.
Final Thoughts
Mastering the 100-yard shot comes down to three things: making a smart club choice, using a controlled setup, and trusting a smooth, rotational swing rather than a hard, arm-driven one. It’s a shot of finesse, not force, and learning to love it will translate directly into lower scores.
Of course, building that confidence takes practice, but sometimes on the course, you just need a clear, an unemotional second opinion. We designed Caddie AI for exactly these moments. When you're standing 100 yards out, unsure if you need a full sand wedge or a three-quarter gap wedge given the wind and pin location, Caddie AI can give you an expert recommendation in seconds. It helps take the guesswork out of the decision-making so you can trust your choice and focus on making a committed, confident swing.