Nothing feels quite like hitting a high, soft wedge shot that takes one clean hop and stops dead next to the pin. It's the shot that draws impressed nods from your playing partners and turns tricky approaches into simple tap-in birdies. This guide will break down the essential components - from equipment and setup to technique and practice - so you can add the one hop and stop shot to your arsenal and hit it with confidence.
What A One Hop and Stop Shot Really Is
Often called a "checking" wedge or a "spin" shot, the one hop and stop is all about generating a high amount of backspin. Unlike a lower-flying chip shot designed to run out, or a floaty pitch shot that releases forward a bit, this shot uses friction and speed to bite hard on the second or third bounce (don't get too literal with "one hop," the idea is *quick stopping power*).
You’ll use this shot when you have green to work with but don’t want the ball rolling out. Think of a pin tucked just over a bunker or a back-tier pin on a firm green. It’s an aggressive, pin-seeking play that gives you a massive advantage inside 70 yards by letting you control the rollout with precision.
The Real 'Secret' to Generating Spin
Before we even get to technique, let’s talk about the factors that make spin physically possible. You can have a perfect swing, but if these three things aren’t in place, the ball simply won’t check up the way you want.
1. Your Equipment Matters (A LOT)
Think of your wedge's grooves and your golf ball's cover as the tread on a tire. Without good tread, you can't get traction on the road. The same principle applies here.
- Pristine, Clean Grooves: This is non-negotiable. If your wedge grooves are filled with dirt, sand, or grass, they cannot grip the golf ball. Water or debris in the grooves acts like a barrier between the metal and the ball's soft cover, drastically reducing the friction necessary for high spin. Carry a groove brush or a wet towel and make a habit of cleaning your wedge face before every single short game shot.
- Your Highest Lofted Wedge: This isn't a shot for your pitching wedge. You need loft to create the "glancing" blow that helps the ball climb the face. Reach for your sand wedge (54-56 degrees) or, even better, your lob wedge (58-60 degrees) to give yourself the best chance.
- A Urethane-Cover Golf Ball: This might be the most overlooked element for amateur golfers. Cheaper, "distance" balls are typically made with a hard Surlyn or Ionomer cover. While durable, this cover is not designed to be grabbed by the clubface's grooves. Premium balls (like a Titleist ProV1, Callaway Chrome Soft, or TaylorMade TP5) have a soft urethane cover. This softer material allows the grooves to "bite" into it at impact, creating massive amounts of friction and spin. If you've been trying to hit this shot with a hard ball, you've been playing on hard mode. Grab a sleeve of premium balls and you’ll see an immediate difference.
2. Creating Friction: The Descending Blow
Spin is a product of speed, loft, and a descending angle of attack. When the clubhead contacts the ball on a downward path, the ball gets slightly "squished" against the clubface. As it compresses, it rolls or "climbs" up the face very quickly, generating thousands of RPMs of backspin. The feeling you are after is ball-then-turf contact. Trying to "scoop" the ball or help it into the air is the number one killer of spin, as it leads to thin or fat contact and eliminates the downward compression needed.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Hit an Pro-Style Checking Wedge
With an understanding of the physics and the right equipment in hand, we can now build the technique.
The Setup: Prime Yourself for a Downward Strike
Your setup pre-programs the kind of strike you're going to make. To hit down on the ball, your setup needs to encourage it.
1. Ball Position: Play the ball in the middle of your stance, or just a touch behind center (closer to your back foot). Moving it back slightly encourages you to strike the ball on your downswing before the club bottoms out.
2. Stance Width: Keep your feet about shoulder-width apart, maybe even slightly narrower. A narrower stance makes it easier to rotate your body through the shot, which is where your speed comes from.
3. Weight Distribution: This is essential. Set about 60-70% of your weight on your lead foot (your left foot for a right-handed player). You should feel a little more pressure under that front foot. This prevents you from swaying back and trying to lift the ball. Your weight starts forward and stays there.
4. Hand Position: Position your hands slightly ahead of the golf ball, creating a little "forward press" line with the club shaft and your lead arm. This de-lofts the club just a bit, which helps make that clean, compressing contact. The club's loft will still do its job to get the ball airborne.
The Swing: Marrying Speed with Control
This shot is not a lazy, gentle flick. It requires confident acceleration through impact.
1. The Takeaway: As you start the swing, feel as though you hinge your wrists relatively early. This is a bit "wristier" than a bump-and-run chip shot. This early wrist set creates a steeper angle of attack and helps you store energy to generate clubhead speed on the downswing.
2. The Downswing: This is where rotation takes over. Start the downswing by turning your hips and chest toward the target. It's the unwinding of your body that brings the clubhead down into the ball. Critically, you must avoid decelerating. Many golfers get fearful and slow the club down right before impact, which results in a weak shot with no spin. Commit to accelerating *through* the golf ball.
3. The Impact Feel: The feeling you are chasing is trapping the ball between the clubface and the ground. Imagine you're trying to drive the ball into the turf. You want to make that pure, crisp sound of club striking ball first, followed by a shallow divot just after where the ball was. Do not try to help the ball up! Trust the loft.
4. The Follow-Through: Your follow-through should be controlled and abbreviated, not a huge, looping finish. As you rotate your body through the impact zone, let the club finish low and pointing towards the target. A good feeling is for your chest to be pointing at the target line at the end of the swing, with most of your weight firmly on that lead foot.
Drills to Dial It In
The Towel Drill
This is a fantastic drill for promoting a descending strike. Place a folded towel on the ground about 6-8 inches behind your golf ball. The goal is simple: hit the ball without disturbing the towel. If you hit the towel first, it means your swing is bottoming out too early - a classic scooping motion. This drill forces you to shift your weight forward and strike down on the ball.
The "Hit and Hold" Drill
To reinforce a solid finish and body rotation, practice hitting shots and freezing in your finish position. Hit a wedge shot and hold your finish until the ball lands. Immediately check your position: Is your weight 90% on your lead foot? Is your chest facing the target? Is your belt buckle pointing at the target? This stops you from stopping your body rotation and helps build a committed, aggressive motion through the ball.
Final Thoughts
Mastering the one hop and stop shot is about combining the right equipment with the right technique. Remember to use a clean, lofted wedge and a premium ball, then focus on setting your weight forward, striking down with a descending blow, and accelerating through impact with your body's rotation. With practice, you’ll be attacking pins you used to be afraid of.
As you get comfortable with the technique, knowing exactly when to use this shot on the course is the next step. Our app, Caddie AI, is designed for these moments. When you're facing a tricky lie in the rough or you’re in-between clubs, you can take a picture of your ball’s situation and get an instant, expert recommendation on the best shot to play. We analyze the lie, your distance, and the situation to help you choose between playing the high spinner or maybe opting for a safer chip-and-run, giving you the clarity and confidence to commit to every shot.