How to Refinish Golf Balls

Bringing a scuffed-up golf ball back to its former pearly-white glory is a surprisingly satisfying project that can save you some serious cash. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from picking the right candidates out of your shag bag to applying that final, glossy clear coat. We'll cover everything you need to know to turn those forgotten spheres into playable, great-looking golf balls perfect for your next practice session or casual round.

Why Bother Refinishing Golf Balls?

You might be wondering if it's even worth the effort. For many golfers, the answer is a resounding yes. A brand new box of premium golf balls can set you back a pretty penny. If you’re playing or practicing frequently, the cost of losing those pristine Pro V1s can add up fast. Refinishing used balls you’ve found or retired is an excellent, budget-friendly alternative for practice, casual rounds, or when you’re playing a course with a lot of water hazards.

Beyond the savings, it’s a genuinely enjoyable DIY project. There’s a tangible sense of accomplishment in taking something old and making it new again. You get to to understand a bit more about the construction of a golf ball and take pride in knowing you put in the work yourself. It's a great way to connect with your gear on a deeper level.

But let's be clear about one thing: a refinished golf ball will not be a USGA-conforming ball for tournament play. The process of sanding and repainting adds and removes material, which can subtly alter the ball's weight, balance, and aerodynamics. Think of these as top-tier "practice" or "knock a round" balls, not what you'll use to win the club championship. They are perfect for hitting at the range, working on your swing in a field, or playing a friendly match with your buddies.

Choosing Your Candidates: Which Balls Make the Cut?

Before you get started, it’s important to sift through your collection of used golf balls. Not every stray is a good candidate for refinishing. Some are destined for the permanent shag bag in the sky. Here’s what to look for and what to avoid.

Go for These:

• Cosmetically Challenged Balls: Balls with grass stains, mud spots, multiple player markings, and logos are prime candidates. These blemishes are purely superficial and will be removed in the cleaning and stripping process.
• Lightly Scuffed Balls: Minor scuffs and cart path scratches that haven’t penetrated the cover are perfect. The light sanding you'll do will smooth these right out, creating a perfect surface for new paint.

Avoid These:

• Balls with Deep Cuts or Gouges: If you can feel a deep cut or a flap of the cover with your fingernail, set that ball aside. The performance of these balls is already compromised, and paint won’t fix it. These are relegated to chipping practice in the backyard.
• Out-of-Round or Cracked Balls: These are rare, but give each ball a quick roll on a flat surface. If it wobbles strangely, its core integrity might be shot. Visible cracks mean the ball is officially retired.
• Waterlogged “Egg” Balls: A ball that has spent too much time at the bottom of a pond is bad news. You can often identify them by dropping them from chest height onto a hard surface like concrete. A good ball will have a sharp, high-pitched "click," while a waterlogged ball will have a dull, dead-sounding "thud." They also sometimes feel slightly heavier. These are unusable.

Be selective. You’re putting time and effort into this, so start with the best possible raw materials. A small pile of good candidates is better than a huge bucket of junk.

Gathering Your Supplies: The Refinishing Toolkit

You don't need a professional workshop for this, but having the right tools on hand will make the process much smoother and deliver better results. Here’s your shopping list:

For Cleaning &, Stripping:

• A bucket
• Warm water and dish soap
• A firm bristle brush (a dish brush or vegetable brush works great)
• Acetone or 100% acetone nail polish remover
• Clean rags or paper towels
• Latex or nitrile gloves (acetone can be harsh on your skin)
• Safety glasses

For Sanding &, Painting:

• Fine-grit sandpaper (400-grit is a great starting point, moving to 600-grit for a finer finish)
• A tack cloth or a slightly damp microfiber cloth
• A can of high-quality white spray primer (one that bonds to plastic is best)
• A can of high-quality white gloss spray paint (Automotive enamel paint is very durable)
• A holding jig: This can be as simple as a piece of cardboard with several golf tees pushed through it, or nails driven through a board.
• A well-ventilated workspace (outdoors or in an open garage is ideal)

For Finishing:

• A can of high-gloss, UV-resistant clear coat spray sealant (polyurethane or acrylic enamel clear is excellent). This is arguably the most important ingredient for durability.
• Optional: Golf ball stencils and a fine-tip permanent marker if you want to re-apply numbers or custom logos.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Refinishing Your Golf Balls

Now for the fun part. Follow these steps methodically, and be patient, especially with the drying times. Good prep work leads to a great finish.

Step 1: The Deep Clean

First, give your chosen golf balls a thorough wash. Fill your bucket with warm, soapy water and let the balls soak for about 15-20 minutes to loosen any stubborn grime. Then, take each ball and scrub it vigorously with your bristle brush under the running water. The goal is to remove every last speck of dirt, grass, and sand. Once they’re clean, dry them completely with a towel. Don’t move on until they are bone dry.

Step 2: Stripping the Old Identity

This is where we remove the old logos, player marks, and oxidized outer layer. Put on your gloves and safety glasses, and find that well-ventilated space. Dampen a rag with acetone and begin rubbing a golf ball in firm, circular motions. You’ll see the original logo, numbers, and any permanent marker ink empezar to dissolve and wipe away. This step also removes the ball's original clear coat, which is necessary for the new paint to adhere properly. Keep turning the rag to a clean spot. Once a ball is stripped clean, set it aside on a clean, dry surface.

Step 3: Creating a Smooth Canvas

Even after stripping, you’ll probably have a few minor scuffs remaining from the ball's previous life on the course. Take your 400-grit sandpaper and gently sand the entire surface of the ball. You aren’t trying to remove a lot of material here - the goal is to create a uniformly smooth and slightly abraded "tooth" for the primer and paint to grab onto. Sand enough to smooth out any small imperfections. A minute or two of light sanding per ball is usually plenty. When you're done, wipe each ball with a tack cloth or a clean, damp cloth to remove all sanding dust, and then let them dry completely again.

Step 4: Primer and Paint

Prep your painting area with a drop cloth to protect against overspray. Place your golf balls onto your holding jig (like tees in cardboard), making sure they’re stable. This will allow you to paint one half of the ball without touching it.

First, apply the primer. Shake the can well, and holding it about 8-10 inches from the balls, apply a very light, even mist coat. Don't try to get full coverage in one pass. Let this tacky coat dry for 5-10 minutes. Then, apply a second, slightly heavier coat of primer to get full coverage. Let the primer cure completely according to the can's instructions - usually an hour or two.

Now, flip the balls over on the jig and repeat the priming process for the other half.

Once the primer is fully cured, it’s time for the white paint. The technique is the same. Shake the can well and apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick one. A thick coat will run and drip, ruining the finish. Apply a light mist coat, wait about 15 minutes, and then apply another light coat. Repeat this until you have a smooth, opaque white finish. Let this half cure for a few hours until it’s dry to the touch, then carefully flip the balls and paint the other half.

Step 5: The Protective Clear Coat

After your paint job is fully cured (give it a good 24 hours to be safe), it's time for the most important step for durability: the clear coat. This protects the paint from chipping on impact and gives the ball that professional-looking high gloss. It also adds a layer of UV protection to prevent the white paint from yellowing in the sun.

Using the same spray technique, apply two to three very thin coats of your UV-resistant clear coat, allowing 15-20 minutes between applications. Ensure you get complete coverage on the entire ball. Again, you'll need to do one half, let it cure, then do the other.

Patience is everything at this final stage. Once the final clear coat is on, leave the balls to cure in a warm, dry, dust-free place for at least 48-72 hours. Don't rush this. Letting them cure fully hardens the finish, making it far more resilient to the abuse of a golf club.

Final Thoughts

Refinishing your own golf balls is a rewarding process that combines a bit of hands-on work with practical savings. By carefully cleaning, sanding, painting, and sealing your old golf balls, you can create a collection of high-quality practice balls that look and feel fantastic, giving new life to what would have been forgotten in your garage.

While you're mastering your A game with DIY projects at home, you can master your B game - strategy and course management - out on the links. Our goal with Caddie AI is to give you that same sense of confidence you get from a perfectly struck shot, but before you even swing. By analyzing the hole, helping with club selection, or giving you a plan to escape a tough lie, we aim to take the annoying guesswork out of golf, so you can spend your time enjoying the good shoots and having more fun on the course.