Landing a high, soft approach shot that bites into the green and leaves a small crater is a pretty satisfying feeling in golf. But what you do in the next 30 seconds determines whether that mark is a temporary dimple or a scar that lasts for weeks. This guide will walk you through the correct, tour-pro-approved method for repairing ball marks, ensuring you leave every green in better shape than you found it.
You've probably heard a grumpy-sounding old-timer mutter about fixing ball marks, but this isn't just about appearances. It's about the fundamental health of the putting surface. A deep ball mark is a wound on the green. When a golf ball lands, it forcefully crushes the grass and soil, leaving an indentation and tearing the grass roots.
Here's the breakdown of why a quick repair is so important:
Think of it this way: for every properly fixed ball mark, you are actively helping the grounds crew maintain the course and making the putting experience better for everyone, including yourself, on your next round.
Just like you wouldn't use a driver in a greenside bunker, you need the right tool to repair a ball mark effectively. While just about anything pointy can be used in a pinch, there's a clear hierarchy of what works best.
This is the gold standard for a reason. The traditional two-pronged divot tool gives you the perfect leverage to work the turf from the sides of the mark without damaging the roots underneath. The prongs are typically thin enough to penetrate the soil easily but strong enough not to bend. Many modern tools also come with a flat, circular top, designed to act as a rest for your thumb for better leverage, and a magnetic ball marker, which is a nice bonus.
Popularized by brands like PitchFix, the single-prong tool works on a "twist" and "push" logic. You insert the single, sturdier prong into the raised wall of the mark and gently twist it to loosen the compacted turf, then push inward. It's highly effective and a favorite of many good players and superintendents. It prevents the common mistake of prying upwards, as the tool's design doesn't really allow for it.
If you're caught on the green and realize your divot tool is back in your bag, a golf tee will work - but you have to be careful. The sharp, pointed end can easily tear grass if you aren't gentle. However, used with the correct technique, it's far, far better than doing nothing at all. Just make sure to use a wooden or bamboo tee, as plastic tees are more likely to snap.
What shouldn't you use? Avoid using keys, pocket knives, or other sharp, wide objects. These are more likely to tear the sensitive roots beneath the surface, doing more harm than good.
This is it - the simple, effective method that greenkeepers wish every golfer knew. The key concept to remember is that you are pushing the turf around the mark back towards the center. You are never lifting up from the bottom.
Identify the crater left by your ball. You'll notice that the turf is pressed down in the middle but raised up around the edges, especially at the "back" of the mark where the ball entered. This raised turf is your target.
Take your divot tool and insert the prongs into the raised collar of turf around the indentation. Insert it at a slight angle, about 45 degrees, aiming away from the center of the mark.
This is the most important part of the entire process. With the prongs in the turf, gently push the tool's handle forward, toward the center of the ball mark. This action pushes the grass and topsoil back into the void left by the ball. Think of it like a surgeon closing a wound or affectionately tucking the grass back in. You are moving from the high ground to the low ground.
What to Avoid: The most destructive thing you can do is stick the tool in and pry upwards. This rips the roots of the grass from deep in the soil, bringing dirt and root matter to the surface. It kills the grass and makes it impossible for the mark to heal quickly.
After your first push, pull the tool out, move it to a different spot around the "clock face" of the mark, and repeat the gentle, forward-pushing motion. Continue this process three or four times, working all the surrounding turf back towards the center until the depression is filled in and the surface is relatively level.
Your work isn't done yet. After you've pushed the turf back together, the spot will be soft and a bit puffy. To finish the repair, take the bottom of your putter head and gently tamp down on the repaired area. Two or three light taps will smooth out the surface, making it firm and true for putting. You can also use the sole of your shoe, but a putter gives you more precise control.
The result should be a spot that is barely noticeable and completely smooth. You've successfully performed green first-aid!
Knowing what not to do is just as valuable as knowing the right technique. Here are the most frequent errors golfers make when trying to fix a ball mark.
Taking pride in the condition of the course is a hallmark of a thoughtful and respectful golfer. Mastering the simple, ten-second process of properly repairing a ball mark is a direct contribution to better playing conditions for you, your buddies, and every person who tees it up after you.
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