Knowing what each club in your bag is designed to do - and how to adjust your setup and swing for each one - is fundamental to playing confident, consistent golf. This guide breaks down the entire bag, from the driver to the putter, giving you clear, straightforward steps for every club you carry. We'll cover the right ball position, stance, and swing thoughts to help you hit better shots, so you can stop guessing and start executing.
The Driver: Maximize Your Distance Off the Tee
The driver is your longest club and, for many, the most fun to hit. Its sole purpose is to send the ball as far as possible down the fairway. Because it has the lowest loft, the swing is different from your irons, you need to hit the ball on an upward angle to launch it high with low spin.
Setup for Success with a Driver
- Ball and Tee Position: Tee the ball up high, so that half of the ball sits above the top edge of your driver. It should be positioned in line with the heel and instep of your lead foot.
- Stance: Take a wide stance, with your feet set slightly wider than your shoulders. This creates a stable base that allows you to make a powerful turn.
- Body Tilt: Place a little more weight on your trail foot, about 60%. This allows you to tilt your shoulders slightly away from the target, creating an upward angle at impact. You want to feel like you're behind the ball.
The Swing
The swing motion for a driver is a sweeping one. Imagine sweeping the ball off the tee with the clubhead moving fast and level when it makes contact. Instead of hitting down like with an iron, the goal is to strike the ball after the swing has bottomed out.
- Focus on a big shoulder turn in the backswing, keeping your arms relaxed.
- Let your body unwind powerfully through impact. Your hips and torso should rotate toward the target, which helps deliver the club at maximum speed.
- Don't try to lift the ball into the air. The club's loft and your upward strike will take care of this. Your aim is to let your rotation do the work.
Woods and hybrids (like a 3-wood or 5-wood) are used for longer shots off the fairway or for tee shots on shorter holes. They are designed to hit balls that rest on low or tightly mown turf, making them more versatile than longer irons.
Setup for a Wood or Hybrid
- Ball Position: When hitting from the turf, position the ball about a ball ahead of center. This is further forward than with an iron but not as forward as your driver.
- Weight Distribution: Keep your weight fairly balanced, close to 50/50 between your feet.
The swing for a wood or hybrid is similar to the sweeping motion of a fairway wood, but you're still trying to make contact slightly after the ball.
For a fairway wood from the deck, think of clipping the grass just after the ball. For a hybrid, it's similar. You may want a slight divot after contact, but it shouldn't feel like you're digging.
Their lower weights help get the ball in the air easily from longer distances.
Short Irons (9, PW): Precision and Control
As you get into the short irons, the focus shifts entirely from power to precision. These are your scoring clubs, used for approach shots where accuracy is paramount. The goal is to control distance and get the ball to land softly on the green.
Setup
- Ball Position: Move the ball slightly back from the middle of your stance. A good reference is just one or two balls' width behind center.
- Stance: Narrow your stance slightly compared to your mid-irons.
- Weight: You can place a little extra weight on your lead foot (around 55-60%), which promotes a steeper, more controlled swing.
The swing with a short iron is more compact. You rarely need a full, 100% power swing. Instead, learn to control your distances by adjusting the length of your backswing (think of a clock face: a swing to 9 o'clock goes shorter than one to 11 o'clock). The attack angle is steeper than with mid-irons, resulting in higher shots that stop faster on the green.
Long Irons (4, 5): Fairway Finders
Long irons can be challenging, which is why many golfers now use hybrids instead. However, they are still valuable tools, especially on windy days or when you need a precise distance tee shot. Since they have less loft, they require a shallower swing than other irons.
Setup
- Ball Position: Play the ball a bit further forward than your mid-irons, about one to two balls inside your lead heel. This isn't as far forward as a fairway wood, but it helps promote a sweeping strike.
- Stance: Your stance should be slightly wider than it is for your mid-irons to provide a stable base for the longer swing.
The swing with a long iron is similar to a hybrid or fairway wood. Instead of a steep, "chopping" downswing, focus on a shallower, more sweeping motion. You still want to hit the ball first, but the divot will be much shallower if one appears at all. The key is to generate clubhead speed through rotation rather than raw effort.
Your Short Game Arsenal: Pitching and Chipping Wedges
Inside 100 yards, your wedges (Pitching, Gap, Sand, Lob) are your go-to clubs for saving pars and setting up birdies. Understanding the difference between a pitch and a chip is essential.
Pitch Shots: Controlled Swings from 40-100 Yards
A pitch is essentially a mini full swing, designed for shots that require more airtime than roll. It uses your body's rotation, similar to a full iron shot, but on a smaller scale.
Setup and Technique
- Set up with a slightly narrower stance and the ball near the middle.
- Control distance by varying your backswing length. For shorter shots, take the club back less, for longer pitches, take it back further.
- Accelerate through the shot. Never slow down at impact - this leads to poorly struck shots like flubs and blades. Maintain a smooth tempo from start to finish.
Chip Shots: Simple Strokes for Greenside Precision
A chip is a small, low-trajectory shot used just off the green. It's designed to get the ball onto the putting surface and rolling toward the hole as quickly as possible. The chipping motion is minimal and should rely more on your shoulders and arms than your wrists.
Setup and Technique
- Stance: Take a very narrow stance, with your feet close together.
- Weight and Hands: Place about 70-80% of your weight on your lead foot and position your hands ahead of the ball. This ensures you make solid, descending contact.
- The Stroke: The motion is similar to a putting stroke. Rock your shoulders back and forth, keeping your wrists firm. The goal is to barely lift the ball into the air before it starts rolling like a putt.
- Club Selection: Don't just use your sand wedge for every chip. Try a pitching wedge or even an 8-iron for longer chips where you need less air and more roll. The less time the ball is in the air, the less can go wrong.
The Putter: Turning Three Shots into Two
You use your putter more than any other club in your bag, making it arguably the most important one for scoring. Good putting isn't about power, it's about two things: speed control and starting the ball on your intended line.
Setup For a Consistent Stroke
- Eyes Over the Ball: When you take your stance, your eyes should be directly over the golf ball or just slightly inside it. This gives you a clear view of the putting line.
- Grip: There are many ways to hold a putter (traditional, interlock, claw), so find what's comfortable and helps to keep your wrists from breaking out of the stroke.
- Posture: Bend from your hips, not from your waist, and let your arms hang naturally. This promotes a shoulder-driven stroke.
The best putting stroke is driven purely by the big shoulder muscles in your back and chest, not your wrists and hands. Try to feel that the triangle formed by your arms and shoulders remains intact, rocking back and forth as one solid unit.
The length of your stroke controls the distance. For a short putt, make a shorter stroke, and for a longer putt, make a longer one. The goal is to hit the center of the putter face every time for consistent distance control. Speed is more important than aim, because if you get speed right, even a misread putt will end close to the hole.
Final Thoughts