Tossing a perfectly good golf grip into the trash simply because you need to get it off a shaft feels wasteful, especially if it’s a favorite model or still has plenty of life left. The good news is that you don't have to reach for the utility knife every time. This guide will walk you through the entire process of safely removing a golf grip without cutting it, allowing you to save it for another day or another club.
You might be wondering if the effort is worth it. For many golfers, it absolutely is. The most common reason is simply to save money. A brand-new, high-quality grip can cost a significant amount, and if you’re pulling a nearly new grip off a club you’re reshafting, why let it go to waste? Maybe you have a specific grip you absolutely love - one that's been discontinued or is hard to find - and you want to transfer it to your new driver shaft.
Another great reason is for maintenance or inspection. Perhaps you suspect a shaft is developing a weak spot or you want to check for rust underneath an older grip without rendering it useless. Finally, learning this skill is an excellent entry point into the wider world of DIY club building and repair. It empowers you and gives you more control over your own equipment, which is a satisfying feeling for any dedicated golfer.
Getting a grip off safely doesn't require a full-blown tour van, but having the right tools makes the job much easier and safer for both you and the golf club. Here’s a checklist of what you should gather before you start:
With your tools laid out, you’re ready to begin. The key throughout this process is patience. Rushing will only increase the chance of tearing the grip or getting frustrated. Work slowly and methodically.
First things first, you need to lock the club into place so you can use both hands freely. Open your vise wide enough to fit the rubber shaft clamp. Place the clamp around the shaft about 6-8 inches down from the base of the grip. Don’t clamp directly on the grip itself or on the very thin tip section of the shaft.
Position the club in the vise so it’s horizontal to the floor. Tighten the vise just enough to hold the club firmly in place without moving. Be especially careful with graphite shafts, they are strong lengthwise but can be crushed by excessive side pressure. Just get it snug. The rubber clamp will provide the necessary friction.
This is where the magic begins. Your goal is to get a generous amount of solvent between the rubber grip and the grip tape on the shaft. There are two primary points of entry.
Let the solvent sit for a minute. You'll need it to start doing its job of dissolving the adhesive.
Now it's time to work that solvent around. Take your blunt-ended grip-saving tool. Gently slide it between the lip of the grip and the shaft, just like you did with your solvent applicator. Carefully push it up the shaft, toward the butt end of the club.
As you work the tool back and forth, you’ll feel the resistance of the old grip tape. Wiggle the tool from side to side and twist the club as you go. This action spreads the solvent and physically separates the grip wall from the tape. If you feel it binding up, pull the tool out and add more solvent. This is the most critical step. Do not force the tool so hard that it pokes through the grip. Be firm but gentle, letting the solvent do most of the work for you.
Work your way around the entire shaft until your tool can slide up and down with relative ease all the way around. You can often feel the bond "let go."
Once you've broken the seal all the way around, the grip should be ready to come off. Grasp the grip firmly with both hands and begin to twist it back and forth. As you twist, apply gentle outward pressure, pulling it away from the club head. You're essentially "unscrewing" it from the tape residue.
Do not just yank on the grip. A straight pull will stretch the grip, and it may not return to its original size. The twisting motion is what ensures the grip slides off smoothly without distortion. If it still feels stuck in one spot, stop twisting and repeat Step 3, applying a little more solvent to the problem area.
With a final twist, the grip should slide right off the end of the shaft. Success!
Sometimes, a stubborn grip puts up a fight. This is especially true for older grips or clubs that were regripped with excessive or unorthodox adhesive. Here’s what to do if you get stuck.
The Grip Won’t Budge: The answer is almost always a lack of solvent. Some double-sided grip tapes are very absorbent. Don’t be shy, add more solvent and give it more time to work. Sometimes walking away for five minutes is enough to let the chemicals finish the job.
Using Gentle Heat: For a particularly stubborn bond, a little heat can help reactivate the solvent and soften the adhesive. Use a standard hair dryer on a low or medium setting. Wave it over the grip for about 30-45 seconds. Do NOT use a heat gun or open flame. You will melt the arip and irreversibly damage the structural integrity of a graphite shaft. Gentle warmth is all you need.
Cleaning Out the Inside: Once the grip is off, you'll need to prepare it for reinstallation. Much of the old tape might be stuck inside the grip. You can often remove this by pouring a bit of solvent inside the grip, plugging both ends with your fingers, shaking it vigorously, and then using a thin rod with a cloth wrapped around it to pull the "gummy" tape residue out.
Learning how to safely remove a golf grip opens up a new level of control over your equipment, saving you money and enabling custom adjustments. By using the right tools, a bit of solvent, and most importantly, a patient approach, you can preserve almost any grip for future use.
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