Chances are you’ve seen them in classic photos or films: the puffy, below-the-knee pants, often paired with argyle socks and a flat cap, that seem to define a bygone era of golf. Those iconic garments are most commonly known as plus fours, a specific type of knickers (or knickerbockers). This article will not only give you the proper names for this classic attire but will also walk you through the fascinating history behind the style, explain why it was so practical for golfers, and show you how its bold spirit lives on today.
While people often use terms like "knickers" or "old-timey golf pants," the most accurate name for the style that dominated golf's golden age is "plus fours." But to really understand the terminology, it helps to break it down.
The story begins with "knickerbockers," a general term for baggy-kneed trousers that end just below the knee. The name originated from Diedrich Knickerbocker, the fictional author of Washington Irving's 1809 book, A History of New York, which featured drawings of Dutch settlers wearing these types of pants. Over time, the name was shortened to "knickers," and they became popular for all sorts of sporting activities in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including cycling, climbing, and golf.
Golfers needed something with more freedom and comfort. The standard knickerbocker design was adapted specifically for the sport, leading to the "plus" system. The number referred to how many inches the fabric extended below the knee before being gathered by a band or cuff.
So, when you see a legendary golfer like Bobby Jones in an old black-and-white photograph, you're almost certainly looking at a pair of well-tailored plus fours.
The plus four wasn't just a quirky fashion trend, it was a garment born out of pure practicality that was perfectly suited to the demands of golf in the early 20th century. Its popularity was a mix of functionality and high-society trendsetting.
Before meticulously manicured fairways became the standard, golf courses were much more rugged. They were often damp, muddy, and traversed with thick, wiry grasses. Regular long trousers were a liability.
While plus fours were functional, they became fashionable thanks to one man: Edward, the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII and the Duke of Windsor). A frequent traveler to the United States and an avid golfer in the 1920s, the Prince was a global style icon. When he started wearing plus fours on American golf courses, the look exploded in popularity. What was once a purely practical piece of sportswear became the height of sophisticated, athletic fashion.
The 1920s and '30s became the golden age for the complete plus fours ensemble. Legendary golfers like Walter Hagen, Bobby Jones, and Gene Sarazen made the look famous. A typical outfit was a coordinated masterpiece of function and style:
Like all fashion, the trends in golf attire eventually changed. The plus four's reign as the standard came to an end, but its legacy as a symbol of golf's heritage has allowed it to endure as a bold statement piece.
After World War II, several factors contributed to the decline of the plus four. Technological advancements in textiles brought about lighter, more comfortable, and easier-to-care-for synthetic fabrics. The new generation of golf stars, like Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus, embodied a more streamlined, modern, and powerful "everyman" look. Simple, well-fitting slacks in polyester and cotton blends became the new uniform for golfers around the world, prioritizing laid-back comfort over formal structure.
Just when it seemed the style was gone for good, it was brought back into the spotlight by golfers who wanted to pay homage to the game's history. The most famous of these was the unforgettable Payne Stewart. In the 1980s and '90s, Stewart made plus fours and a matching tam-o'-shanter cap his signature look. His modern, brightly colored take on the classic outfit made him one of the most recognizable figures in sports and a sentimental fan favorite.
More recently, other pros have tipped their caps to the style. Rickie Fowler revitalized golf fashion with his untucked shirts and jogger-style pants, a modern interpretation of a cuffed trouser. Bryson DeChambeau, famous for his analytical approach, often sports a vintage-style flat cap as a nod to early players like Ben Hogan.
Wearing plus fours today is a deliberate choice - a fun way to stand out at a charity tournament, a member-guest day, or simply to show your love for the game's deep history. If you're thinking of giving it a shot, here’s how to pull it off without looking like you’re in a costume.
Those iconic, old-fashioned golf pants are properly called "knickers," and more specifically, "plus fours." They were a stylish and practical solution for the tougher playing conditions of golf's golden age, offering a freedom of movement that helped define the classic swing. While modern fabrics and styles have since become the standard, the plus four remains a cherished symbol of the game's rich and stylish heritage.
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