Chances are you’ve seen them in classic photos or films: the puffy, below-the-knee pants, often paired with argyle socks and a flat cap, that seem to define a bygone era of golf. Those iconic garments are most commonly known as plus fours, a specific type of knickers (or knickerbockers). This article will not only give you the proper names for this classic attire but will also walk you through the fascinating history behind the style, explain why it was so practical for golfers, and show you how its bold spirit lives on today.
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What are Those Puffy Golf Pants Actually Called?
While people often use terms like "knickers" or "old-timey golf pants," the most accurate name for the style that dominated golf's golden age is "plus fours." But to really understand the terminology, it helps to break it down.
Knickers and Knickerbockers: The Foundation
The story begins with "knickerbockers," a general term for baggy-kneed trousers that end just below the knee. The name originated from Diedrich Knickerbocker, the fictional author of Washington Irving's 1809 book, A History of New York, which featured drawings of Dutch settlers wearing these types of pants. Over time, the name was shortened to "knickers," and they became popular for all sorts of sporting activities in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including cycling, climbing, and playing golf.
Plus Fours, Plus Twos, and Plus Sixes: The Golfer's Choice
Golfers needed something with more freedom and comfort. The standard knickerbocker design was adapted specifically for the sport, leading to the "plus" system. The number referred to how many inches the fabric extended below the knee before being gathered by a band or cuff.
Plus Twos: These were cut to a length that was two inches below the knee. They were a more tailored, less voluminous option, offering a smart-looking but functional fit.
Plus Fours: The most famous and popular style, plus fours were cut an extra four inches below the knee. This additional fabric created that iconic, billowy overhang above the socks that everyone associates with vintage golf fashion. The extra material provided maximum freedom for the twisting and turning of the golf swing.
Plus Sixes: As you might guess, these were even baggier, with a full six inches of extra material. They provided immense freedom of movement but were a bolder, more dramatic fashion statement and less commonly worn than plus fours.
So, when you see a legendary golfer like Bobby Jones in an old black-and-white photograph, you're almost certainly looking at a pair of well-tailored plus fours.
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The plus four wasn't just a quirky fashion trend, it was a garment born out of pure practicality that was perfectly suited to the demands of golf in the early 20th century. Its popularity was a mix of functionality and high-society trendsetting.
Practicality on the Links
Before meticulously manicured fairways became the standard, golf courses were much more rugged. They were often damp, muddy, and traversed with thick, wiry grasses. Regular long trousers were a liability.
Keeping Clean and Dry: The most obvious benefit of plus fours was that they kept the golfer's pant cuffs from dragging through wet grass, dew, and mud. Paired with tall, thick socks, a golfer's legs were well-protected from the elements.
Freedom of Movement: The essence of a good golf swing is rotation. It is a turning action of the hips and shoulders that powers the club around the body. Heavy wool trousers of the era were restrictive and could impede this natural rotational movement. The baggy cut of plus fours offered complete freedom for the hips and legs to pivot and drive through the ball, something every golfer knows is essential for generating power and consistency.
The Trendsetter: The Prince of Wales
While plus fours were functional, they became fashionable thanks to one man: Edward, the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII and the Duke of Windsor). A frequent traveler to the United States and an avid golfer in the 1920s, the Prince was a global style icon. When he started wearing plus fours on American golf courses, the look exploded in popularity. What was once a purely practical piece of sportswear became the height of sophisticated, athletic fashion.
The Golden Age of Golf Fashion
The 1920s and '30s became the golden age for the complete plus fours ensemble. Legendary golfers like Walter Hagen, Bobby Jones, and Gene Sarazen made the look famous. A typical outfit was a coordinated masterpiece of function and style:
The Plus Fours: Usually made of heavy tweed, flannel, or linen.
Elaborate Socks: Argyle patterns became synonymous with the look, held up by garters just below the knee. The socks were a crucial element for displaying personal style.
The Shirt and Tie: Many golfers in this era wore a formal shirt and tie even during play.
Matching Waistcoat or Sweater: Layering was key, often with a woolen sweater or a tweed waistcoat (vest).
The Flat Cap: Often called an ivy cap, a tweed cap was the finishing touch that completed the look.
From Staple to Statement: The Evolution of Golf Pants
Like all fashion, the trends in golf attire eventually changed. The plus four's reign as the standard came to an end, but its legacy as a symbol of golf's heritage has allowed it to endure as a bold statement piece.
The Shift to Modern Trousers
After World War II, several factors contributed to the decline of the plus four. Technological advancements in textiles brought about lighter, more comfortable, and easier-to-care-for synthetic fabrics. The new generation of golf stars, like Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus, embodied a more streamlined, modern, and powerful "everyman" look. Simple, well-fitting slacks in polyester and cotton blends became the new uniform for golfers around the world, prioritizing laid-back comfort over formal structure.
Keeping the Tradition Alive
Just when it seemed the style was gone for good, it was brought back into the spotlight by golfers who wanted to pay homage to the game's history. The most famous of these was the unforgettable Payne Stewart. In the 1980s and '90s, Stewart made plus fours and a matching tam-o'-shanter cap his signature look. His modern, brightly colored take on the classic outfit made him one of the most recognizable figures in sports and a sentimental fan favorite.
More recently, other pros have tipped their caps to the style. Rickie Fowler revitalized golf fashion with his untucked shirts and jogger-style pants, a modern interpretation of a cuffed trouser. Bryson DeChambeau, famous for his analytical approach, often sports a vintage-style flat cap as a nod to early players like Ben Hogan.
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Wearing plus fours today is a deliberate choice - a fun way to stand out at a charity tournament, a member-guest day, or simply to show your love for the game's deep history. If you're thinking of giving it a shot, here’s how to pull it off without looking like you’re in a costume.
Tips for Wearing Plus Fours Today
Own It with Confidence: The first rule of wearing plus fours is to embrace the statement. Don’t be sheepish about it. You're wearing a piece of history and demonstrating a true passion for the game. Confidence is the key accessory.
Prioritize the Fit: While they are meant to be baggy, a good fit is still important. Make sure they aren't so voluminous that they get in your way. Look for authentic sellers who still use the "plus" sizing so you can get the exact amount of overhang you want.
Don't Forget the Socks: Your socks are just as important as the pants. Argyle patterns became synonymous with the look, held up by garters just below the knee. The socks were a crucial element for displaying personal style.
Complete the Outfit: Don't pair plus fours with a modern, technical polo. To make the look work, you need to commit. Pair them with a classic-cut polo, a V-neck merino wool sweater, or a simple button-down. A flat cap is almost non-negotiable to complete the aesthetic.
Where to Find Them: You won't find traditional plus fours at your local sporting goods store. You'll need to turn to specialized online retailers that focus on heritage sportswear or vintage golf attire.
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Those iconic, old-fashioned golf pants are properly called "knickers," and more specifically, "plus fours." They were a stylish and practical solution for the tougher playing conditions of golf's golden age, offering freedom of movement that helped define the classic swing. While modern fabrics and styles have since become the standard, the plus four remains a cherished symbol of the game's rich and stylish heritage.
Making smart decisions on the course, whether about your attire or your strategy, is part of what makes golf so rewarding. That's why we created Caddie AI. While we can’t pick your outfit for you, we can help you navigate any tricky situation you face during your round. We've designed it to act as your personal on-demand golf expert, ready to offer advice on club selection, strategy for a tough hole, or how to play a difficult lie. You can even snap a photo of where your ball landed in the rough, and our AI will offer a smart recommendation on how to play the shot, helping you remove the guesswork and play every shot with confidence.
Spencer has been playing golf since he was a kid and has spent a lifetime chasing improvement. With over a decade of experience building successful tech products, he combined his love for golf and startups to create Caddie AI - the world's best AI golf app. Giving everyone an expert level coach in your pocket, available 24/7. Caddie's mission is simple: make world-class golf advice accessible to everyone, anytime.
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