The number stamped on the bottom of your golf club, whether it’s a 7 or a P, only tells half the story. The other, more important half is the club’s loft - the precise angle of the clubface that determines how high and how far the ball flies. This guide will walk you through the standard lofts for every club in the bag, explain why those standards have changed over the years, and give you the knowledge to make sure your set is built for your game.
In the simplest terms, loft is the angle of the clubface in relation to the shaft. Imagine holding a club so the shaft is perfectly vertical, the loft is the angle that the face tilts backward, away from being vertical.
This angle directly influences two things: trajectory and distance.
Think of it like the nozzle on a garden hose. Point it straight ahead (low loft), and the water shoots far. Angle it skyward (high loft), and the water goes up high but lands much closer. Every club in your bag is designed with a specific loft to produce a predictable distance, creating a toolbox that lets you cover everything from a 250-yard drive to a 15-yard chip.
If you talk to a golfer who has been playing for a few decades, you’ll likely hear them complain that "a 7-iron today is really a 5-iron from the old days!" They’re not wrong. Over the last 20 years, club manufacturers have been gradually decreasing the loft on their irons. This practice is often called “loft jacking.”
Why do they do it? It’s mostly for marketing. When you test a new 7-iron and hit it 15 yards farther than your old 7-iron, you're more likely to buy it. What’s really happening is that the new 7-iron likely has the same loft as your old 6-iron or even 5-iron. For example, a 7-iron from the 1990s might have had 35 degrees of loft, while a modern “game improvement” 7-iron could have as little as 28 degrees.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Modern club design, with its low centers of gravity and high forgiveness, helps launch these stronger-lofted clubs into the air effectively. The problem is that it makes the idea of a “standard” loft a moving target. The loft of a 7-iron from one brand can be a full club different from another, especially when comparing a players-style "blade" to a super-game-improvement model.
Because there's no official, universal standard, the best we can do is talk about typical loft ranges for modern equipment. Remember, these are general guidelines. The only way to know the exact lofts in your bag is to check the manufacturer’s website for your specific model's specifications.
These clubs are your distance machines. They have the lowest lofts in the bag to maximize shot length and rollout from the tee or the fairway.
This is where the "strong loft" trend is most noticeable. Below are the typical loft ranges you'll see in a modern set of game-improvement irons. More traditional or "players" irons will generally have lofts that are 2-4 degrees weaker (higher) for each club.
The most important part to notice is the pitching wedge. With modern PWs having lofts as low as 43 degrees, a massive gap is often created between it and a traditional sand wedge. This leads us to the scoring clubs.
Your wedges are purpose-built for precision and control inside 120 yards. Having consistent distance gaps here is more important than anywhere else in your bag. The aim is to have about 4-6 degrees of loft between each wedge.
Knowing about "standard" lofts is good, but applying that knowledge is what will lower your scores. It’s not about having clubs with "correct" lofts, it's about having clubs with the *right* lofts for you.
Stop guessing. The first step is to look up the exact specifications for your iron set on the manufacturer’s website. Find your model and write down the loft of every club. This is the foundation of building a properly gapped set.
The whole point of loft progression is to create predictable distance gaps between clubs, usually about 10-15 yards. Now that you know your lofts, you can diagnose problems. For example, you might look at your specs and see:
That is a massive 12-degree gap! This likely translates to a 25-30 yard dead zone in your bag where you have no full-swing club. In this case, adding a 50-degree Gap Wedge is the simple solution to give you a reliable club that flies a distance right in the middle.
If you're serious about taking the guesswork out of your game, nothing beats a professional club fitting. A good fitter will put you on a launch monitor to measure not just your distances, but to see precisely how you launch the ball. They can then recommend the right equipment and, more importantly, can often bend the lofts on your existing irons by a degree or two to perfect your gapping. This ensures you have a club for every shot, every time.
Understanding golf club lofts peels back a layer of the game, moving you beyond just the number stamped on the club to the science of what makes the ball fly. True mastery isn't about conforming to a "standard," but about knowing your own equipment inside and out so you can build a set that produces consistent yardage gaps from your driver to your lob wedge.
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