Golf Tutorials

What Golf Club to Use for Distance?

By Spencer Lanoue
July 24, 2025

Standing on the fairway, staring at the flag 150 yards away and wondering What club should I hit? is a universal feeling in golf. Choosing the right club is about more than just knowing a generic yardage chart, it’s about understanding your swing, your clubs, and the course in front of you. This guide will walk you through a clear, simple process for figuring out which golf club to use for any distance so you can pull your next club with complete confidence.

Understanding Your "Stock" Distances

Before you can intelligently choose an 8-iron over a 9-iron, you need a baseline. In golf, we call this your "stock yardage." A stock shot is your normal, comfortable swing - not a swing-out-of-your-shoes hero attempt, and not a delicate finesse shot. It's your average, maybe 80% effort swing that you can repeat consistently. Knowing this number for every club in your bag is the foundation of good course management.

If you don’t have these numbers, finding them is your first and most important job. Here’s a simple way to do it:

  1. Go to the driving range or a simulator. A range with clear yardage markers or a launch monitor is best.
  2. Warm up properly. Don’t start measuring distances with your very first swings. Get loose and find your rhythm.
  3. Pick a mid-iron to start, like your 7-iron. Hit 10 balls with it, focusing on making your normal, comfortable "stock" swing on every single one.
  4. Measure the carry distance. This is important. You want to know how far the ball flies in the air before it starts to roll. Use a personal launch monitor, the range's shot-tracking technology, or estimate based on where your shots are landing relative to the flags.
  5. Do the math. Throw out your single worst shot (a total mishit) and your single best shot (the one you absolutely crushed). Average the carry distance of the remaining eight balls. That’s your stock 7-iron distance.
  6. Repeat the process. Work your way through every iron and wedge in your bag (e.g., 6-iron, 8-iron, 9-iron, Pitching Wedge). Then do the same for your hybrids, fairway woods, and driver.

Write these numbers down on a small card to keep in your golf bag or in a note on your phone. This isn't just a list, it’s your personal distance blueprint. It's the starting point for every club selection decision you'll make.

Your Beginner Distance Chart (A Starting Point)

If you're brand new and just want a general idea, here's a very rough estimate of average distances for a male golfer. But remember, your own numbers are what truly matter.

  • Driver: 200 - 240 yards
  • 3-Wood: 180 - 215 yards
  • 5-Wood/3-Hybrid: 170 - 190 yards
  • 4-Iron/4-Hybrid: 160 - 180 yards
  • 5-Iron: 150 - 170 yards
  • 6-Iron: 140 - 160 yards
  • 7-Iron: 130 - 150 yards
  • 8-Iron: 120 - 140 yards
  • 9-Iron: 105 - 125 yards
  • Pitching Wedge (PW): 90 - 110 yards
  • Gap/Approach Wedge (GW/AW): 80 - 100 yards
  • Sand Wedge (SW): 65 - 85 yards

Again, this is just a general reference. Use the process above to find your true numbers.

The Distance Family: Meet Your Clubs

Think of your bag as a family of tools, each with a primary job related to distance and control. Understanding their Roles will make selection much easier.

The Powerhouses: Driver & Fairway Woods

The Driver is the king of distance. It has the longest shaft and the lowest loft (typically between 8-12 degrees), all designed for one thing: hitting the ball as far as possible off a tee. Its large head size makes it forgiving on off-center hits.

Fairway Woods (3-wood, 5-wood, etc.) are your go-to clubs for long shots from the fairway. They are easier to hit off the ground than a driver because they have more loft. A 3-wood is often your second-longest club and a reliable alternative to the driver on tight tee shots. A 5-wood or 7-wood has even more loft, making them easier to get airborne from the turf or even light rough.

The Problem Solvers: Hybrids

Hybrids were created to be easier to hit than long irons (like a 3, 4, or 5-iron). They combine the "wood-like" shape that helps the club glide through turf with the "iron-like" length and loft. For most amateur golfers, a hybrid is a confidence-inspiring choice for long approach shots, from tricky lies in the rough, or even for shorter tee shots where accuracy matters more than raw power.

The Workhorses: The Irons (4-iron through 9-iron)

Irons are designed for precision approach shots into greens. They are generally categorized into three groups:

  • Long Irons (4, 5): These have lower loft and are designed for longer approach shots. They produce a lower, more piercing ball flight that can be very helpful in windy conditions, but they require a bit more swing speed to hit well. Many golfers now replace them with easier-to-hit hybrids.
  • Mid-Irons (6, 7, 8): This is the heart of your bag. You’ll use these for most of your approach shots. They provide a great balance of controllable distance and enough loft to land the ball softly on the green. The 7-iron is often the most-used practice club for this reason.
  • Short Irons (9): This is your primary scoring tool for short approaches. It has plenty of loft to produce a high, soft-landing shot that stops quickly on the green, giving you more control as you get closer to the hole.

The Precision Tools: Wedges (PW, GW, SW, LW)

Wedges aren't really about maximum distance, they are about exact distance. With the highest lofts in your bag, they're built for shots inside about 110 yards, chipping, pitching, and getting out of bunkers. Knowing your carry distance with a full swing is important, but you'll also hit partial swings (half swing, three-quarter swing) to dial in specific numbers.

Beyond Stock Distances: The Art of Club Selection

Your "stock yardage" chart is your science, but playing smart golf is an art. The number on the sprinkler head is rarely the full story. Once you know your baseline distances, you must learn to adjust for what's actually happening on the course. Here are the biggest factors to consider.

The Lie is Everything

Where your ball is sitting has a huge impact on what you can do with it.

  • Perfect Fairway Lie: The dream. You can trust your stock yardage here. Pick your club based on the number and swing away.
  • Fluffy Rough: A ball sitting up in deep grass (a "flyer" lie) can reduce spin. The ball will come out hot and low, often flying 5-15 yards farther than you anticipate and not stopping well when it lands. Consider taking one less club (e.g., a 9-iron instead of an 8-iron) to account for the extra roll.
  • Heavy/Wet Rough: Thick, damp grass will grab your clubhead, slowing it down. This robs you of distance. You’ll need to take at least one extra club (e.g., a 7-iron instead of an 8-iron) just to get the ball to the front of the green. Getting out is the primary goal.
  • Hardpan/Bare Lie: On compact dirt, there's no grass to get between the club and ball. This can slightly increase distance, but the main danger is hitting the ball "thin." It's often better to go with a hybrid or a club with a wider sole that's less likely to dig.

Elevation: Uphill vs. Downhill

Gravity matters. Your yardage app or rangefinder might give you a "plays like" distance that accounts for this, but a good rule of thumb is:

  • Uphill Shots: An uphill shot effectively adds loft to your club. The ball will fly higher and shorter. You need to take more club. Add about one club for every 10-15 feet of elevation gain.
  • Downhill Shots: Going downhill reduces the effective loft. The ball will fly lower and longer. You need to take less club. Subtract about one club for every 10-15 feet of elevation loss.

Wind: The Invisible Opponent

This is where new players lose the most strokes. You cannot ignore the wind.

  • Into the Wind (Hurting): This is the most obvious one. The wind will reduce your carry distance. A 10 mph headwind could mean taking one extra club, a 20 mph wind might mean taking two or even three. It's almost always better to take the extra club and make a smooth swing.
  • Downwind (Helping): The wind is at your back, pushing the ball farther. You can take one less club.
  • Crosswind: A crosswind doesn't just push your ball right or left, it can also affect distance slightly. More importantly, you need to adjust your aim. Aim into the wind and let it bring the ball back to your target.

Here’s a great piece of advice: "When it's breezy, swing easy." Trying to muscle a shot into the wind just adds spin and makes the ball balloon up, letting the wind affect it even more. Take an extra club and swing smoothly at 80%.

Final Thoughts

Knowing what golf club to use for any distance melts away uncertainty and lets you swing with conviction. It starts with building a reliable baseline of your "stock" distances and then layering on the artistic adjustments for real-world factors like the lie, elevation, and wind.

Sometimes, all those variables can feel overwhelming when you're standing over the ball. That's why we built Caddie AI. When you're stuck between a 6 and 7-iron because the wind is swirling and the shot is uphill, I can provide an instant, smart recommendation. You can even take a picture of a difficult lie in the rough, and I'll analyze it and suggest the best way to play the shot, removing the guesswork so you can focus on making a great swing.

Spencer has been playing golf since he was a kid and has spent a lifetime chasing improvement. With over a decade of experience building successful tech products, he combined his love for golf and startups to create Caddie AI - the world's best AI golf app. Giving everyone an expert level coach in your pocket, available 24/7. His mission is simple: make world-class golf advice accessible to everyone, anytime.

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