That violent, low, snapping shot that starts left of your target and curves even harder to the left is one of the most destructive misses in golf. We’re talking about the pull hook, and if you’ve ever hit one, you know the hopeless feeling as it dives into the trees or out of bounds. This article will break down exactly what a pull hook is, the common faults that cause it, and a clear, step-by-step plan with actionable drills to get this shot out of your game for good.
To understand the fix, you first have to understand the problem. A pull hook is a combination of two separate ball flight errors happening at the same time. For a right-handed golfer, the "pull" comes from an "out-to-in" swing path. This means the clubhead is traveling from outside your target line to inside your target line as it strikes the ball, which sends the ball starting to the left of your target.
The "hook" part is caused by the clubface being closed relative to that out-to-in swing path. So, not only does the ball start left, but the hooking spin (caused by the closed face) makes it curve even more dramatically to the left during its flight. It’s often a low, powerful, running shot that’s impossible to control.
Think of it like this:
When these two mistakes combine, you get the double-whammy pull hook - the ultimate round-wrecker.
More than any other miss, the pull hook can feel like an outright betrayal by your golf swing. It often happens when you're trying your best to hit the ball hard or when you’re trying to prevent a slice. This is why it’s sometimes called a "double cross" - you were trying to do one thing, and the exact, brutal opposite happened.
Beyond the mental scar tissue, it’s a scorecard destroyer because:
But here’s the good news: the pull hook is not a random event. It stems from specific, identifiable flaws in your setup and swing. If we can identify them, we can fix them.
To get rid of the hook, we have to play detective and find the source. Usually, it's a combination of a few of the following culprits working together.
This is the big one. An "over-the-top" swing is the most common source of an out-to-in path. It happens during the transition from the backswing to the downswing. Instead of the club dropping down on a shallow plane from the inside, the right shoulder, arm, and hip lunge aggressively out toward the ball. This throws the club "over the top" of the correct swing plane.
This move is usually driven by our natural instinct. From the top of the swing, the most direct line to the ball feels like it’s straight at it. So, we fire our upper body first, creating that steep, outward lunge. This not only forces the out-to-in path, but it also saps your swing of its rotational power, leading to other compensations.
The term "strong" here doesn't mean pressure, it refers to the position of your hands. For a right-handed player, a strong grip is one where both hands are rotated too far to the right on the club. You can check this by looking down at address. If you can see three or even four knuckles on your left hand, your grip is likely too strong.
A strong grip inherently wants to close the clubface at impact. As your arms and body rotate through, a strong grip makes it very easy for the clubface to turn over or "release" too early. When you combine this active, closing clubface with the over-the-top path, you have the perfect recipe for a pull hook.
Often, golfers unknowingly create the pull hook before they even start their swing. A classic setup flaw is aiming your feet and hips a given direction (say, toward the target) but leaving your shoulders pointed well left of the target (or "open").
When your shoulders are open at address, your body’s natural tendency is to swing along the line of your shoulders, not your feet. This effectively pre-programs an out-to-in swing path. Your body is just doing what you told it to do. It’s trying to swing where it’s aimed - and in this case, it’s aimed left.
This is a more dynamic fault that happens during the downswing. A powerful, efficient golf swing is led by the lower body unwinding toward the target. In a "stall," the hips stop rotating too early, usually just before impact. When your hips stop, your momentum dies.
But the club still has to get to the ball. With the body's rotation stalled out, the only engine left is your hands and arms. They are forced to take over, flipping the clubhead at the ball in an attempt to generate speed and square the face. This hand-and-arm "flip" is incredibly hard to time. More often than not, it causes the clubface to slam shut at impact, creating that vicious hook spin.
Ready to get to work? Changing your swing doesn't happen overnight, but diligently working through these steps and drills will retrain your body and get that pull hook out of your life.
Before anything else, let’s get your hands in a neutral position. A neutral grip allows you to release the club naturally through impact, not force it shut.
If your grip was strong, this will feel very strange - almost "weak," as if the face will be wide open. Trust it. A neutral grip is the foundation for a consistent clubface.
Build disciplined alignment into your pre-shot routine. The easiest way to practice this is with two alignment sticks.
When you take your setup, your toes should be square to the second stick. Then, set your hips and finally your shoulders parallel to that same stick. This ensures your entire body is aimed correctly, giving you a chance to swing on a proper path.
Now we get to the core of the problem: changing that over-the-top motion into an in-to-out path. This requires retraining your initial move in the downswing.
This drill provides immediate feedback if you come over the top.
To succeed, you will be forced to drop the club down from the inside to approach the ball on a shallower, more in-to-out path. If you swing over the top, you'll hit the guard every time. Start with slow, half-swings to get the feel before moving to full speed.
Finally, we need to eliminate the "stall and flip" by teaching your body to rotate all the way through to a full finish. A stalled lower body is a hook's best friend.
This is a classic drill for a reason - it’s fantastic for learning what continuous rotation feels like.
It's impossible to do this drill if your hips stall. The act of stepping through forces your body to keep turning, engaging your big muscles as the engine instead of relying on a frantic flip of the hands.
Fixing a pull hook comes down to identifying the flaws in your setup and swing and then using targeted drills to correct them. An over-the-top, out-to-in swing path paired with a closed clubface creates the ugly miss, but by neutralizing your grip, perfecting your alignment, and grooving a propper in-to-out motion, you can build a more reliable swing that delivers power and accuracy.
Trying to diagnose the exact cause of a complex swing fault on your own can feel like guesswork. To address this, I built Caddie AI to provide that instant, coach-level feedback right when you need it. Instead of wondering if your pull hook is from a strong grip or an over-the-top path, you can ask for a quick analysis or specific drills tailored to your problem. It’s like having a 24/7 golf coach in your pocket, taking the uncertainty out of practice so you can focus on getting better, faster.
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