A taper tip golf shaft is an iron shaft with a tip section that gradually narrows to a finished diameter of .355 inches. Unlike its counterpart, the parallel tip, this type of shaft is designed for a precise, one-to-one fit into a specifically engineered clubhead. This article will walk you through exactly what a taper tip is, how it compares to a parallel tip, how to know which one you have, and most importantly, what it all means for your game.
To really get what a taper tip shaft is, you first have to understand what it isn't. The golf shaft world is essentially split into two main designs for irons and wedges: taper tip and parallel tip. Think of it as the fundamental DNA of the shaft, dictating how it’s built and installed.
Imagine sharpening a pencil. As you get closer a the tip, it gets progressively narrower until it reaches its final point. A taper tip shaft does something similar, but in a very controlled, engineered way. The outside diameter of the shaft gets continually smaller over the last several inches of the tip section, ultimately finishing at a standardized .355 inches.
Here’s the deal with this design: Taper tip shafts are meant to be installed directly into the clubhead without any tip trimming. The clubhead hosel (the part of the iron where the shaft goes in) is also tapered internally to match. The shaft is simply inserted until it seats firmly at the bottom of the hosel. This creates a very constant, friction-based fit. The only cutting that happens is at the grip end (the butt) to get it to your final playing length.
Now, think of a straw or a permanent marker. Its diameter is the same from the middle all the way down to the end. That’s a parallel tip shaft. The tip section maintains a constant, "parallel" diameter all the way down. The standard size for parallel tip iron shafts is .370 inches.
Because the tip diameter is consistent, a parallel tip shaft is designed to be highly versatile. A club builder can tip trim it - cutting small amounts off the tip end - to manipulate the flex. For instance, removing an extra inch might make a Regular flex shaft play closer to a Stiff flex. This makes them a favorite in the world of component club building and aftermarket fitting. A single shaft model can be used to build an entire set of irons by following a specific trimming guide for each head.
Alright, so how do you figure out what’s in your own clubs? It’s usually pretty straightforward, and here are a few ways to check.
This is the easiest first step. As a rule of thumb, if your irons are from any of the major golf brands you'd see on Tour, they are factory-built with .355" taper tip shafts. It’s part of how they maintain incredible consistency from club to club in a set. If you are playing a component set you built yourself or had a local builder assemble, there's a good chance they are .370" parallel tip.
The only foolproof method is to measure the shaft tip yourself. If you have a loose shaft or have pulled one out of a clubhead, you can use a simple digital caliper (a great tool for any golf tinkerer) to measure the outer diameter of the tip. If it reads .355 inches, it’s a taper tip. If it reads .370 inches, it’s a parallel tip. You need to measure the very end of the shaft for an accurate reading.
If you're buying a new shaft, the specifications are almost always listed. Websites a the manufacturer, or large retailers will clearly state the tip diameter. Look for ".355 Taper" or ".370 Parallel" in the product description. This is essential when reshafting a club - you must match the new shaft's tip type to what your iron heads are designed for.
Quick Coach's Note: Can you put a .355" taper shaft into a .370" parallel hosel? Yes, by "shimming" it with a small brass sleeve that fills the gap. Can you put a .370" parallel shaft into a .355" taper hosel? Nope. The only way is to sand down the shaft tip or re-bore the hosel, both of which are advanced (and risky) club-building jobs that can alter the shaft's performance and integrity. It's always best to match the shaft to the head.
It's fair to ask why these two different standards even exist. Each has its specific purpose and benefits, largely hinging on the difference between mass manufacturing for consistency and custom building for versatility.
Here’s the simple, honest answer: For the overwhelming majority of golfers, the type of shaft tip in your irons is not something to worry about. The shafts that came standard in your Titleist, PING, or Callaway irons are high-quality, taper-tip models that were chosen to perform well with those specific heads.
Instead of worrying about taper vs. parallel, your energy is far better spent focusing on the three performance characteristics that truly matter:
Finding the right combination of those three elements will make a hundred times more difference in your performance than a .015-inch variance in tip diameter. The taper vs. parallel debate is mainly relevant for club builders, fitters, and DIY golfers who enjoy the process of building and tweaking their own equipment. For everyone else, rest assured that the taper tip shafts in your irons are the industry standard for a very good reason - they just work.
A taper tip golf shaft is simply an iron shaft with a .355" tip diameter, loved by major manufacturers for its incredible consistency and the solid feel it produces. While its parallel tip .370" cousin offers more versatility for custom builders, the taper tip remains the gold standard for producing perfectly matched iron sets.
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