Thinking about a fresh set of grips is the first step to making your clubs feel brand new, and picking the right solvent is a huge part of doing the job correctly and safely. This guide cuts straight to what works, what doesn't, and how to use it, giving you a full walkthrough so you can confidently regrip your clubs yourself.
Before we pick a liquid, it’s good to know exactly what it’s supposed to be doing. When you're sliding a new grip onto a golf club, the solvent has two main jobs. First, it acts as a lubricant. The inside of a new grip and the double-sided tape on the shaft are incredibly sticky. Without a slippery liquid, you’d have almost no chance of sliding the grip all the way down. The solvent creates a temporary, slick surface that lets you push the grip on smoothly.
Second, it's an activator for the adhesive on the grip tape. Most grip tapes are not peel-and-stick like regular tape, their adhesive comes to life only when it comes into contact with a solvent. The solvent dissolves the outer layer of the adhesive, making it gummy and ready to bond. As the solvent evaporates over the next few hours, the tape's adhesive cures, locking the grip firmly in place. So, the solvent is the temporary helper that makes the permanent connection possible.
The easiest, safest, and most effective liquid you can use is a solvent made specifically for installing golf grips. This is the stuff a club builder or your local pro shop technician uses. I always recommend going this route if possible, especially for your first time.
You can find dedicated grip solvent in squirt bottles or aerosol cans at most golf retailers or online. A single bottle contains enough to do several full sets of clubs, making it a pretty good investment for any golfer who enjoys a little DIY work.
If you don't have access to dedicated solvent, there are a few common household chemicals that have been used by golfers for decades. They work, but they come with trade-offs, mainly concerning safety and fumes. If you go this route, always work in a well-ventilated area, like an open garage or outdoors, and keep them far away from any open flames or heat sources.
This is probably the most popular and reliable alternative. Mineral spirits (or paint thinner) does a great job of activating grip tape and providing enough lubrication to slide the grip on with ease. It evaporates cleanly, leaving no residue behind, which allows for a strong bond.
Before low-odor mineral spirits became common, many old-school club builders swore by naphtha-based lighter fluid (the kind you use in a Zippo lighter, not butane). It works exceptionally well and evaporates very quickly, which means grips set up faster than with mineral spirits.
The internet is full of "tricks" that seem like a good idea but can lead to disaster. Using the wrong liquid can either prevent the grip from ever setting properly or, worse, damage your expensive equipment.
Once you've chosen your solvent, the process is straightforward. A little preparation makes it go smoothly.
Place the rubber shaft clamp around the shaft about 10-12 inches below where the grip ends. Gently tighten the club in the vise. You want it snug enough not to move, but not so tight you crush a graphite shaft. Using your hook blade, face the blade away from your body and carefully cut the old grip from bottom to top. Peel it off.
Peel off the old grip tape. It might come off in one piece or a hundred little pieces. Any stubborn residue can be removed by applying a small amount of mineral spirits or your solvent to a rag and wiping the steel or graphite clean. The shaft must be completely free of old tape and gunk.
Measure a piece of tape that’s about a half-inch shorter than your new grip. Apply it to the shaft, starting at the butt end. Let about a half-inch of tape hang over the end of the shaft. Peel the backing off the tape, and then twist and push the overhanging tape down into the hole at the end of the shaft. This creates a seal that prevents solvent from getting down inside the club.
This is the moment of truth. Place your small pan under the club in the vise. Grab your new grip and cover the small vent hole at the end with your thumb or index finger. Pour a generous amount of solvent into the open end of the grip - don't be shy here! Now, close the open end with your other hand and shake the grip enthusiastically for a few seconds to coat the entire inner surface.
Now, pour the solvent from inside the grip out over the entire length of the double-sided tape you just installed. It needs to be completely saturated. Set the empty grip down for a second and use your finger to spread the solvent over any dry spots on the tape.
Immediately pick up the grip and, with a swift, confident motion, push it onto the butt end of the shaft. You should feel it slide on smoothly. Push it all the way down until the end of the grip meets the end of the shaft. You’ll only have about 20-30 seconds of work time before it starts to get tacky.
Before the solvent sets, quickly align the grip so the logo or pattern is positioned correctly with the clubface. You can do this by eyeing it up or taking the club out of the vise and soling it on the ground. Once it looks straight, give it a final wipe with your rag to clean off any excess solvent.
Patience! The grip needs time for the solvent to fully evaporate. Don't be tempted to take a swing. Let the club sit for at least a few hours. To be extra safe, let it dry overnight. By morning, you’ll have a perfectly installed grip that feels amazing and performs exactly as it should.
Properly installing a new set of grips is one of the most rewarding and cost-effective ways to improve the feel of your game. Using a dedicated, purpose-made grip solvent is always the safest and most reliable method, but hardware store alternatives like mineral spirits will also get the job done when handled with proper safety precautions.
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