It’s happened to all of us: a perfect day on the course is interrupted by an unexpected downpour, or you find your ball in a water hazard and need to take a drop after a soggy retrieval. The question immediately hits you: is it actually okay for your expensive golf clubs to get wet? The answer is yes, they absolutely can get wet, but what you do afterward makes all the difference. This guide will walk you through exactly what water does to your clubs and provide a step-by-step plan for keeping them in prime condition, whether you're playing in the rain or just dealing with a bit of morning dew.
So, What Actually Happens When Golf Clubs Get Wet?
Modern golf clubs are built to withstand the elements far better than the persimmon woods and hickory shafts of old. However, they aren't completely invincible. Water, especially when left to sit, can negatively impact every single part of your club. Understanding the potential risks helps you know what to look for and how to prevent long-term damage.
Clubheads (Irons, Wedges, and Putters)
The primary concern with your iron, wedge, and putter heads is rust. Most modern clubheads are made from stainless steel or carbon steel with a chrome plating or specialized finish. While these are highly rust-resistant, they are not rust-proof. A small nick, scratch, or simply extended exposure to moisture can allow oxidation (rust) to begin forming.
While a tiny speck of surface rust might not seem like a big deal, it can have subtle effects:
- Feel and Performance: For highly skilled players, even a small amount of rust can slightly alter the feel at impact. On wedges, rust in the grooves can interfere with their ability to channel away water and grass, potentially impacting spin.
- Aesthetics: Let's be honest, no one wants to see their prized set of clubs looking old and neglected.
- Resale Value: Keeping your clubs rust-free is essential for maintaining their value if you ever plan to sell or trade them in.
Clubheads (Drivers, Woods, and Hybrids)
Modern drivers and woods are technological wonders, typically made from titanium, carbon composites, and steel. They are sealed incredibly well, but they aren't submarines. While highly unlikely, it's possible for water to get inside the head through a tiny imperfection, especially around the hosel (where the shaft connects to the head). You might hear a "sloshing" sound if this happens, which can affect weighting and balance.
The more common concern is moisture weakening the bond of the epoxy that holds the shaft and any adjustable hosel adaptors in place. Consistent moisture can, over time, degrade this bond.
Shafts (Steel vs. Graphite)
The type of shaft you have determines how it reacts to water.
- Steel Shafts: Steel shafts have a chrome plating that provides excellent protection. However, a deep scratch or ding can expose the underlying steel, creating a prime spot for rust to form. The biggest threat to steel shafts, however, comes from the inside. If water gets under your grip, it can seep into the shaft and begin rusting it from the inside out, where you can't see the damage until it's too late.
- Graphite Shafts: Graphite shafts will not rust. The material itself is impervious to it. The concern here is for the painted finish. Constant moisture or abrasive cleaning when wet could potentially damage the paint and graphics over time. Similar to all clubs, the integrity of the epoxy holding the head and tip adapter is the real weak point when faced with moisture.
Grips: The Unsung Hero
Your grips are arguably the part of the club most negatively affected by water in the short term and potentially the most damaging in the long term.
- Immediate Effect: Wet grips are slippery grips. Whether they're made of rubber, polymer, or cord, water drastically reduces friction. This forces you to hold the club tighter, creating tension in your swing and robbing you of feel and control. A slippery grip is a recipe for a bad shot.
- Long-Term Damage: This is the big one. When water gets under the grip, it saturates the two-sided grip tape and adhesive. This dissolves the glue, causing the grip to slip, stretch, or twist on the shaft. Once a grip starts twisting, it's a goner and needs to be replaced. Furthermore, that trapped moisture is the number one cause of shafts rusting from the inside.
Playing Smart: Keeping Your Clubs Dry During a Rainy Round
Prevention is always the best medicine. If you know you're heading out for a wet round, a little preparation goes a long way. This isn't just about protecting your clubs, it's about giving yourself the best chance to play well.
- Invest in a Good Rain Hood: That cover that snaps onto the top of your bag is your first line of defense. Use it. Make sure it fits properly and doesn't have any holes or tears.
- Double Up on Towels: This is a pro-level tip. Bring at least two towels. Keep one draped over your clubs under the rain hood or tucked under your umbrella to keep it as dry as possible. Use this "dry towel" exclusively for wiping your hands and grips right before you swing. Use the second towel for wiping mud and water off your clubfaces and golf balls.
- Control Your Club's Ground Time: When you're near the green with a putter and a wedge, don't lay the extra club down on the wet grass. Prop the grip up on your bag or lay it on the semi-dry towel you brought. Never let your grips sit in a puddle or on soggy turf.
- Wipe Before You Stow: After every single shot, take a couple of seconds to wipe the clubhead and at least the lower part of the shaft before putting it back in the bag. Tossing a wet, grassy club into your bag just transfers that moisture everywhere else.
The Post-Round ER: A Step-by-Step Guide to Drying Your Clubs
What you do in the 30 minutes after your round is finished is more important than anything else. You have to get ahead of the rust and mildew. Follow these steps religiously every time your clubs get soaked.
Step 1: Get Them Out of the Car Trunk. NOW.
This is the cardinal sin of wet club care. Leaving your damp clubs in a sealed golf bag inside a hot (or cold) car trunk is like creating a perfect science experiment for rust and mildew. The humid, dark environment is where damage happens fastest. As soon as you get home, bring them inside.
Step 2: Unload Everything
Don't just pull the clubs out. Empty your entire bag. Pull out every club, take off all the headcovers, and remove any wet towels, gloves, or rain gear. The bag itself needs to dry out too. Prop it open somewhere with decent air circulation.
Step 3: A Thorough Wipe-Down
Using a clean, completely dry towel (not the one you used on the course), wipe down every single part of each club.
- Heads: Get into the grooves and any engravings.
- Ferrules: Dry the little plastic piece where the shaft meets the head.
- Shafts: Wipe down the entire length of the shaft from top to bottom.
Step 4: Focus on the Grips
This is the most important step for preventing long-term damage. Dry the outside of the grips as much as you can with a towel. If they feel particularly saturated, you can use a hairdryer on a low heat or cool setting to help evaporate the moisture. This helps prevent water from seeping underneath and compromising the grip tape.
Step 5: Let Them Air Dry Separately
Once everything is wiped down, you need to let air do the rest of the work. Stand the clubs up individually (grips facing up!) in a corner of your garage, a spare room, or a covered porch. Leaning them against a wall is fine. Let the headcovers and the empty golf bag dry separately. Do not, under any circumstances, put damp headcovers back onto damp clubs.
"Oops, I See Some Rust" - What Now?
Played in the rain last week and forgot to dry your trusty 8-iron? Don't panic. If it's just minor surface rust, it's often an easy fix.
For small spots of surface rust on a chrome finish, a little distilled white vinegar or a mix of lemon juice and water on a soft cloth can work wonders. For slightly more stubborn spots, you can use a piece of #0000 super-fine steel wool (hardware stores have this) and a bit of water or gentle soap. Scrub very lightly in a circular motion until the rust lifts. Be gentle to avoid scratching the finish. Once clean, wipe it dry immediately and consider applying a very thin coat of WD-40 or rubbing it with a silicone cloth to add a layer of protection.
If you see deep, pitting rust, the damage might be more significant, and it may be a good idea to have it looked at by a professional club builder.
Final Thoughts
So, can your golf clubs get wet? Yes. The real question is how you respond. By being proactive on the course and diligent with your drying routine afterward, you can play in any weather without fear, knowing your equipment will be safe from any long-term damage like rust or loose grips. Keeping your clubs clean and dry isn’t just about maintenance, it's about ensuring they perform their best for you every time you play.
Thinking your way around the course is just as important as maintaining your gear, especially when conditions are tricky. For those moments when you're facing a wet lie or trying to decide the right strategy in the rain, remember that I can help. With Caddie AI, you can get instant, expert advice on club selection and shot strategy right on the spot. I can even analyze a photo of your ball's lie to help you choose the smartest Tshot, ensuring you can play with confidence no matter what the weather throws at you.