Thinking about changing your own golf grips? The answer is a resounding yes, and it’s a far more manageable and rewarding task than you might imagine. Not only does it save you a bit of money and a trip to the golf shop, but it also gives you a deeper connection to your equipment. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from what supplies you'll need to the final polish, equipping you with the confidence to get the job done right.
Your grip is the one and only physical connection you have with your golf club. Imagine trying to drive a car with a slippery, cracked steering wheel - you wouldn't feel very confident or in control. The same logic applies to your clubs. Over time, the rubber and materials in your grips break down due to exposure to UV rays, sweat, and the oils from your hands. They become hard, slick, and a little bit shiny.
When this happens, you instinctively start to squeeze the club tighter to keep it from twisting in your hands. This extra tension is a swing-killer. It wreaks havoc on your tempo, shortens your swing, and prevents you from delivering the clubhead to the ball with any real feel. A fresh, tacky grip allows you to hold the club with lighter, more relaxed pressure. This frees your arms and wrists to move properly, which leads to better clubface control and ultimately, more consistency and power.
So, when is it time? Look for these signs:
As a general rule, a regular golfer who plays once or twice a week should consider regripping their clubs once a year. If you’re just hitting the range occasionally, you might get a couple of years out of them. But feeling is believing - if they don't inspire confidence when you pick them up, it's time for a change.
Getting your workspace prepped with everything you need beforehand makes the whole process smooth and efficient. You can buy these items individually or find complete regripping kits online or at major golf retailers.
Here’s what you absolutely must have:
Helpful extras to make your life easier:
You’re working with a sharp blade and a chemical solvent, so a little bit of common sense goes a long way. First, always cut the old grip away from your body. The hooked blade is designed for this, so let the tool do the work and always control the direction of the cut. Second, work in a well-ventilated area - a garage with the door open is perfect. While most grip solvents are low-odor, you still want good airflow.
Once your supplies are gathered and your workspace is set up, you're ready to get started. Don't rush, take your time with the first one, and you’ll find you’re a seasoned pro by the third or fourth club.
Place the rubber shaft clamp around the shaft, about five to six inches below where the old grip ends. Open your vice just wide enough to fit the clamp and tighten it until the club is held securely. It should be firm enough that it won't rotate when you apply pressure, but don't-overcrank it and put unnecessary stress on the shaft, especially if it’s graphite. Position the club so the face is square to the ceiling - it's much easier to align the new grip this way.
Take your hook tool or utility knife. Hook the edge of the blade under the bottom opening of the grip (the "mouth") and push it forward, cutting a straight line up towards the butt end of the club. The hooked blade helps protect the shaft from scratches. Once you’ve a single cut along the length of the grip, you can easily a-peel it off the shaft. It will come off in one or two pieces along with the top layer of tape.
This is often the most time-consuming step, but it might be the most important. The new grip tape needs a perfectly clean, smooth surface to adhere properly. Any leftover bits of old tape or glue will create lumps under your new grip. You can use your hook blade (carefully!) or a plastic scraper to peel and scrape away the old tape. If it's particularly stubborn, a little heat from a hairdryer will often soften the old adhesive, making your job much easier. A rag lightly dampened with grip solvent can help remove any final sticky residue. Give the shaft a final wipe-down with a clean towel.
Take one strip of your double-sided grip tape. Leave about a half-inch of tape overhanging the butt end of the shaft. Peel off the backing and apply the tape lengthwise down the top of the shaft, avoiding any wrinkles or bubbles. Carefully wrap the rest of the tape around the shaft. One smooth, single layer is standard. Now, take that half-inch of overhanging tape, twist it, and tuck it neatly inside the opening at the butt of the shaft. This creates a smooth cap and prevents solvent from getting down inside the shaft itself.
Peel off the waxy outer layer of the tape you just applied. Next, grab your new grip. Place a finger (or a golf tee) over the small vent hole in the butt end. Pour a generous amount of grip solvent into the mouth of the new grip - about a third of the way full should do it. Now, place your other thumb over the mouth opening and give the grip a good shake to ensure the entire inside surface gets coated with solvent. Place your drip tray under the club in the vice, and now pour the excess solvent directly from the new grip all over the fresh double-sided tape, making sure to wet the entire surface.
This is the moment of truth, and the key is to be quick and confident. With the tape activated and the inside of the grip lubricated, take the opening of the new grip and immediately start pushing it over the butt end of the shaft. Use one smooth, continuous motion to slide the grip all the way down until the grip's end cap is snug against the end of the shaft. It may require a firm push, but don't stop halfway! If you do, the solvent can evaporate and the grip will get stuck.
You have a short window - maybe 30-60 seconds - before the adhesive sets. With the clubface still pointing square to the ceiling, make sure the alignment markings on the top of the grip are perfectly straight. Just eyeball it from above to get it right. Once you're satisfied, give it a final wipe with a towel to remove any excess solvent. Then, leave it alone. It's tempting to start waggling it, but let the club rest for at least a few hours - preferably overnight - to allow the solvent to fully evaporate and the tape to cure.
Regripping your clubs is a genuinely satisfying project that leaves you with tangible results you can feel on the very next round. It puts you in total control of your equipment's feel and performance, and armed with this guide, you now know that you are more than capable of handling the job yourself.
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