How to Build a Golf Net with PVC Pipe

Building your own golf net with PVC pipe is one of the most rewarding and game-changing DIY projects for any golfer. It’s an affordable, straightforward way to bring the driving range to your backyard. This detailed guide will walk you through everything from planning the design to assembling a sturdy, reliable practice station you can use anytime.

Why Build Your Own PVC Golf Net?

Before grabbing the tools, let's talk about why this project is so valuable. First, it’s all about convenience. Having a net ready to go in your backyard, garage, or basement means you can make ten swings or a hundred swings whenever you have a spare moment. You're not limited by driving range hours or weather. This consistent repetition is where real improvement happens in golf. Second, it's cost-effective. A high-quality pre-made golf cage can cost several hundred dollars. A homemade golf net built from PVC can be put together for a fraction of that price without sacrificing functionality. Lastly, it’s completely customizable. You can tailor the dimensions to fit your specific space perfectly.

Planning Your PVC Practice Net

A little planning goes a long way. Taking a few minutes to think through these apects will save you headaches later and result in a better, safer final product.

Designing Your Frame

The classic standard for a DIY golf hitting cage is a 10’ wide x 10’ high x 10’ deep cube. This gives you ample space, protecting you from mis-hits that go sideways or straight up. However, a 10-foot depth can be a bit large for some spaces. A very popular and stable variation is a 10’ High x 10’ Wide x 5’ Deep frame. This depth provides plenty of safety while reducing the overall footprint and materials needed.

For this guide, we’ll build a 10’ x 10’ x 5’ hitting cage. This is a fantastic, all-purpose size that is strong and fits in most backyards or larger garages.

Finding the Right Location

Safety is the most important factor here. Look for a location that is clear of any potential hazards. You'll need a flat, level surface to ensure the frame is stable. Place your net so you aren't hitting balls toward any windows, cars, walkways, or your neighbor’s property. Even with a net, a stray shot (or a ball a ricochet) is always a possibility. A garage, basement with high ceilings, or a private section of your backyard are ideal spots. Always be aware of what is behind the net.

Choosing the Right Materials

When it comes to the pipes, you have a couple of choices, but one is clearly better. You'll see two common types of PVC pipe at the hardware store: Schedule 40 and Schedule 20 (or "Thin-Wall").

• Schedule 40 PVC: This is the pipe you want. It has thick walls, is extremely rigid, and can withstand the outdoor elements and the slight vibrations from ball impacts. It’s the standard for durability.
• Schedule 20 PVC: This pipe is much thinner, lighter, and more flexible. While it’s cheaper, it simply isn't strong enough to create a reliable and safe golf cage. It will bow and bend over time.

As for diameter, 1.5-inch Schedule 40 PVC is the sweet spot. It offers a great balance of strength, weight, and cost, and the corresponding fittings are readily available. You can go up to 2-inch for an even stronger build, but it’s often unnecessary and adds to the cost.

Materials and Tools Checklist

Head to your local home improvement store with this shopping list. Everything here should be easy to find in the plumbing aisle.

Materials for a 10’x10’x5’ Frame:

• PVC Pipe: 1.5-inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe. You’ll need approximately 90 feet in total. It’s usually sold in 10-foot lengths, so grabbing nine or ten pipes is perfect (it's good to have a little extra).
• PVC Fittings (1.5-inch):
  • (8) 3-Way Corner Fittings: These have three openings and form the corners of the cube.
  • (Optional, but recommended) (2) T-Fittings: These can be added to the base for extra ground support.
• PVC Primer and Cement: Get the two-can pack with the Purple Primer and the Heavy Duty PVC Cement. This is what permanently welds the joints together.
• Golf Hitting Net: This is not the place to scrape by. You need a net made specifically for golf. Look for a heavy-duty nylon or polyester netting rated for real golf ball impact. A 10' x 10' net is perfect.
• Bungee Cords or Heavy-Duty Zip Ties: A pack of 24-30 will do the trick for securing the net to the frame.
• (Optional) Impact Screen / Heavy Baffle: This is a secondary, heavy-duty sheet or net that hangs directly in front of your main hitting net. It takes the main force of the impact, significantly extending the life of your primary net and deadening the sound. An old, heavy blanket or a moving pad works wonders.

Tools You'll Need:

• Tape Measure
• Marker or Pencil
• PVC Cutter (ratcheting style works great) or a Hacksaw
• Rubber Mallet (optional, but helpful for seating pipes in fittings)
• Safety Glasses and Work Gloves

Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions

Here’s where the fun starts. Set aside an afternoon, turn on some music, and let’s get this built.

Step 1: Cut Your PVC Pipes

Careful measurement is the foundation of a good frame. Using your tape measure and marker, mark the cut lines on your PVC pipes. Wear your safety glasses. With your PVC cutter or hacksaw, make straight, clean cuts. For our 10’H x 10’W x 5’D frame, here’s your cut list:

(Note: We cut them just short of the full length to account for the space the fittings take up, giving us final outer dimensions of roughly 10’ and 5’.)

• (4) pieces @ 9 feet, 9 inches - These will be your vertical uprights.
• (4) pieces @ 9 feet, 9 inches - These will be your horizontal width crossbars (top and bottom).
• (4) pieces @ 4 feet, 9 inches - These will be your depth braces (top and bottom).

Step 2: Assemble the Rear Frame

It’s best to work in sections. First, let's build the back rectangle of the frame.

IMPORTANT TIP: Always “dry fit” your entire frame first without any PVC cement! This allows you to make sure all your cuts are correct and everything lines up perfectly before it becomes permanent.

1. Take two of your 9' 9" upright pieces and two of your 9' 9" width pieces.
2. Connect them using four of your 3-way corner fittings to form a large square or rectangle on the ground.
3. Use the rubber mallet to gently tap the pipes fully into the fittings. Ensure the third opening on each corner fitting is pointing in the same direction - this is where your depth braces will connect. This will lay flat on the ground.

Step 3: Assemble the Front Frame

Repeat the exact same process from Step 2 with the remaining two uprights, two width pieces, and four corner fittings to build the an identical front frame.

Step 4: Connect the Front and Back Frames

Now it's time to build the three-dimensional cage.

1. Carefully stand up your rear frame. It's helpful to have a second person for this part.
2. Take your four remaining 4' 9" depth braces. Insert one into each of the open ports on the corner fittings of the rear frame.
3. Now, carefully lift the front frame and align its corner fittings with the open ends of the four depth braces.
4. Gently but firmly push the front frame onto the braces until everything is seated. Tapping with the mallet helps create a snug fit.

At this point, you should have a fully-assembled, unglued 10' x 10' x 5' cage. Stand back and admire it! Check that it’s square and sits level.

Step 5: Cement the Joints (Your "Dry Fit is a Go!")

Once you’re happy with the dry fit, it's time to make it permanent. This part moves quickly, so be prepared.

1. Work one joint at a time. Pull a pipe out of its fitting.
2. Apply the purple PVC primer to the outside of the pipe end and the inside of the fitting socket. The primer cleans and softens the plastic.
3. Quickly apply a thin, even coat of PVC cement over the primed areas.
4. Immediately reinsert the pipe into the fitting with a slight twisting motion. Hold it firmly in place for about 30 seconds as the chemical weld sets.
5. Wipe away any excess cement. Repeat for every joint. The frame will be fully cured and ready for hard use in about 24 hours.

Step 6: Attach Your Golf Net

The final and most exciting step!

1. Drape the net over the top of the frame and let it fall down the back and sides.
2. Start at the top corners. Attach the net to the frame using a bungee cord or zip tie.
3. Work your way down the sides, spacing your bungees or zip ties every 12-18 inches.
4. Do the same across the top crossbar.
5. You want the net to be taut, but not stretched to its absolute limit. A tiny bit of slack helps absorb the ball's energy safely.
6. Let the bottom of the net pool slightly on the ground. This will stop balls from skipping underneath.

Finally, if you have an impact baffle or heavy blanket, hang it from the top-back crossbar inside the cage, a few inches in front of your permanent net. This one simple addition will extend the life of your golf net significantly.

Final Thoughts

By following these steps, you’ve built yourself a fantastic, durable golf practice station. This DIY PVC golf net is more than just a project, it’s an investment in your game, giving you the freedom to practice anytime and build the consistency you're looking for.

Now that you have your own personal driving range, you can focus on quality practice. When you're hitting balls and working on your swing, thousands of questions can pop up from "is my backswing on plane?" to "what would be the best drill for fixing my sclice?" As you develop your game at home, it can be extremely powerful to know exactly how your on course decision make has been impacted by your off course practice - which is what inspired us to develop Caddie AI. The idea is simple - to put a personal golf coach in your pocket, one that’s there 24/7 to answer any question you have about technique, strategy, or your golf swing, so your practice time is always productive. Happy hitting!