Changing your own golf grips is one of the most satisfying DIY jobs a golfer can do, instantly making old clubs feel new again. It’s a straightforward process that gives you a better connection to the club and boosts your confidence before you even swing. This guide will walk you through every step, from removing the old grip to aligning the new one, so you can do the job right at home.
Your grip is your only point of contact with the golf club, so its condition matters immensely. Over time, grips become hard, slick, and cracked from exposure to sweat, sunlight, and general wear and tear. Playing with worn-out grips can cause some real problems in your golf swing.
When a grip is slick, your subconscious reaction is to hold on tighter to prevent the club from twisting or slipping. This creates tension that runs all the way up your arms and into your shoulders, restricting your ability to make a free-flowing, powerful swing. You lose feel, and your swing mechanics suffer as you fight to control the club face with brute force instead of technique.
A fresh set of grips offers several benefits:
Most experts recommend changing your grips once every year, or about every 40 rounds. If you play or practice more often, you may need to do it twice a year. If you can see shiny, smooth patches or feel the grip is losing its texture, it’s time for a change.
Before you start, getting all your materials together will make the process much smoother. You can buy these items individually or get a complete regripping kit from most golf retailers. Here’s what you’ll need:
With your tools laid out, you’re ready to begin. The first time might take a little longer, but once you do one or two, you’ll find a rhythm and can probably get through a full set in about an hour.
Place the rubber shaft clamp around the shaft of your club, about five or six inches below where the old grip ends. Tighten the clamp in your vise just enough so the club won't move, but not so tight that you risk damaging it. Before clamping down, position the club so the face is perfectly square to the ceiling. This is an important reference point for when you install and align the new grip a few steps later.
Take your hook blade and place it at the base of the old grip. Carefully and deliberately, pull the blade up and away from your body, slicing through the grip all the way to the butt end. With a hook blade, you can apply pressure into the grip without much risk of hitting the shaft. If you’re using a utility knife, be much more careful with the pressure and angle to avoid scratching the shaft underneath. Once you’ve made the cut, you can easily peel the old grip off.
This is often the most time-consuming step. The old grip tape needs to be completely removed. Start by peeling off a corner and see if you can pull it away in long strips. More likely, it will come off in small, frustrating pieces. You can use a bit of your solvent/mineral spirits to help dissolve the adhesive. For really stubborn tape, you can gently use a plastic scraper or even a bit of heat from a heat gun or hairdryer (on a low setting) to soften the glue. Your goal is a perfectly clean, smooth shaft surface.
Take one strip of double-sided grip tape. Leave about a half-inch of tape hanging over the butt end of the shaft. Wind the tape smoothly around the shaft, slightly overlapping it as you go, and make sure there are no bumps or wrinkles. Peel off the paper backing. Now, take the half-inch of extra tape at the top and twist it, tucking it inside the shaft opening. This creates a seal that prevents solvent from pouring inside the shaft.
Pro Tip: If you desire a slightly thicker grip without going up to the next size, you can add extra layers of tape. Each full layer of tape will increase the grip's "finished" diameter slightly.
This is where it all comes together. Have your new grip ready. Place a finger or a golf a tee over the small vent hole at the butt end of the grip. Pour a generous amount of solvent into the opening of the grip - fill it about one-third of the way. Close the grip opening with another finger and swish the solvent around to coat the entire inside surface. Now, pour that excess solvent from inside the grip directly over all of the new tape on the shaft, using your catch pan to collect the runoff. Don't be shy with the solvent, being too dry is the number one cause of failed installations.
You need to move quickly and confidently. Grab the new, lubricated grip and slide it over the end of the shaft. Line up the grip’s opening and push it on with one continuous, smooth motion. You might need to give it a firm push to get it started over the butt edge. Keep pushing until the grip is all the way on and the butt end of the grip is seated firmly against the butt end of the club shaft. There shouldn't be a gap.
You have about a minute or two before the tape and solvent begin to set. While the grip can still move, rotate it until its alignment markings (logos, lines, etc.) are perfectly lined up with your square clubface. Look down from the playing position to double-check that it looks perfectly straight. This is why squaring the face back in Step 1 was so important.
Once you are happy with the alignment, wipe off any excess solvent with a rag and take the club out of the vise. Lean it against a wall to dry. The grips need several hours to fully set before you can use them. To be safe, wait 12-24 hours before heading to the range or the course.
Now, just repeat the process for the rest of your clubs!
Learning how to change your own grips is a skill that will save you money and give you a greater sense of connection to your equipment. It's a simple, rewarding task that pays dividends in feel and confidence on the course, so don’t be afraid to give it a try.
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