How to Fix a Pull in Golf

Watching your golf ball start directly left of your target and stubbornly hold that line is one of the most frustrating experiences in the game. You made solid contact, the ball flew straight, but it was just... straight in the wrong direction. That shot is called a pull, and it wreaks havoc on your scores. This guide will walk you through exactly why a pull happens and provide a clear, step-by-step plan with actionable drills to turn that left-miss into a shot that finds the fairway or the flagstick.

What Exactly Is a Pull? (And Why It Isn't a Hook)

First, we need to be clear about what we're fixing. Golfers often use terms like "hook," "slice," and "pull" interchangeably, but they describe very different ball flights. Understanding the difference is the first step a good coach takes to diagnose a swing.

• A pull is a shot that starts left of the target line and flies straight on that initial path, never curving back toward the target.
• A hook is a shot that might start straight or even to the right of the target before making a significant curve to the left during its flight. A pull-hook is the worst of both - it starts left and curves even further left.

This distinction matters because the fixes are different. A pull is fundamentally an issue with your swing path, not an issue with a dramatically closed club-face at impact, which causes a hook. Getting this diagnosis right sets you on the correct course for a true fix.

The Root Cause of a Golf Pull: An "Out-to-In" Swing Path

At its core, a pull is overwhelmingly caused by one specific D.N.A. marker in your golf swing: an out-to-in swing path combined with a club-face that is square to that path.

Let's break that down in simple terms. Imagine two lines running parallel to your target line, one on either side of your ball, creating a "lane" that goes straight toward the flag.

• An "in-to-out" path is the goal. Here, the clubhead travels from inside the target lane, strikes the ball, and continues to the outside of the lane after impact. It promotes a draw or a straight shot.
• An "out-to-in" path is the culprit behind the pull. The clubhead starts outside the a target lane, cuts across it to strike the ball, and then finishes inside the lane. It's often called "coming over the top."

When your swing path travels out-to-in, it literally directs the ball's initial flight to the left. If your clubface happens to be pointing exactly where your path is going (square to the path), the ball will have no sidespin and will fly straight left. Your setup and swing are the two places where this fault originates, so that's where we'll look for the fix.

Step 1: The Pre-Shot Checkup - Solving the Pull Before You Swing

More often than not, a persistent pull starts before you even begin your backswing. Your body is an incredible machine that will try to self-correct to hit the ball toward the target, and sometimes your setup forces it into a bad position. Here’s what to check.

Check #1: Your Alignment

This is the most common cause of an out-to-in path. Many right-handed golfers who fight a slice (a curve to the right) have developed a habit of aiming their body far to the left of the target. When they fix their slice, they're left with this flawed alignment. From that aimed-left position, their brain knows the target is actually to the right, so the only way to swing toward it is to cut across the ball, creating an out-to-in path.

The Fix: Use a proper alignment routine on every single shot.

• Stand a few feet behind your golf ball and pick a small, specific target downrange (e.g., a tree, a bunker edge).
• Now, find a spot on the ground just one or two feet in front of your ball that is on a direct line to that ultimate target. This could be a different colored patch of grass, a piece of an old divot, or a leaf. This is your intermediate target.
• First, set your clubface down behind the ball, aiming it directly over your intermediate target.
• Only after the clubface has aimed, set your feet, hips, and shoulders on a line parallel to your clubface's aim. Imagine a railroad track: the ball and clubface are on the right rail aimed at the target, and your body is on the left rail.

Committing to this process builds a neutral setup and removes the need for your body to make compensations.

Check #2: Your Ball Position

If the ball is placed too far forward in your stance for the club you're hitting, you give your swing more time to come "around" your body. By the time your club reaches the ball, the downswing arc has already started moving back to the inside, which means you're striking the ball on the "inward" part of an out-to-in path.

The Fix: Here’s a simple guide for ball position.

• Wedges to 8-iron: The ball should be directly in the center of your stance, right under your sternum.
• 7-iron to 5-iron: The ball a position moves slightly forward of the center, about one to two ball widths.
• Hybrids and Fairway Woods: Move it another ball width or two forward, toward your lead foot.
• Driver: The ball should be positioned off the heel or instep of your lead foot.

When in doubt, start with the ball in the middle and see if that straightens out your start line. Moving the ball back slightly in your stance is one of the quickest ways to encourage a more in-to-out path.

Step 2: Fixing the Mechanics – Creating an Inside Swing Path

If you've checked your setup fundamentals alignment and the pull is still there, it's time to work on the G-Swing motion itself. The problem is what golfers call "coming over the top" - a swing sequence where the upper body, shoulders, and arms start the downswing aggressively instead of the lower body.

Here are three effective drills to retrain your swing to an "from-the-inside" movement.

Drill #1: The Downswing Headstart

This drill helps you feel the proper sequence: your lower body starting the downswing and creating space for your arms and club to drop to the inside.

What to do:

1. Take your normal setup.
2. Before starting your backswing, presets your hips by turning them about halfway toward the target, as if you were already at impact. Feel the weight shift to your lead foot.
3. From this "preset impact" position, now take your normal backswing.
4. As you start the downswing, your very first thought should just be to return your hips to that preset forward posiiton you felt first. You'll immediately notice this move forces your arms to drop rather than lunge forward. Making a few practice swings before hitting a ball

This breaks the habit of the shoulders spinning out first and forces the lower body to lead, which shallows out your swing path naturally a for perfect swing plane

Drill #2: The Basket Drill

This provides an unmissable physical barrier that prevents you from swinging out-to-in and trains a more rounded, inside-out path on a track attack.

What to do:

1. Take an empty range basket (or a headcover) and place it on the ground outside and slightly ahead of your golf ball.
2. Your goal is to make a swing that purposefully avoids hitting the basket at you hit the ball in your iron shots. The only way to succeed is to approach the ball from the inside and extend out toward the target.
3. If you come over the top, you'll hit the basket on your downswing. Start with small, half-swings at 50% speed until you can consistently strike the ball and and never a good feeling when brushing grass the basket. This visual and physical feedback is incredibly powerful for reprogramming poor motor your perfect iron play.

Drill #3: The Trail Arm Tuck

An "over the top" move is often caused by the trail arm (right arm for a right-handed golfer) throwing itself away from the body at the start of the downswing. This drill forces you to keep your swing "connected."

WHAT TO DO:

1. Tuck a small towel or an extra golf glove under your trail-arm's armpit (your right armpit if you're a righty).
2. Make swings without letting the towel drop. You should be able to make a full backswing and a full downswing all the way to impact while keeping the towel in place. You have a good handle on your backswing.
3. If the towel drops early in your downswing, it means your right arm is flying outward, away from your ribs, pushing the club onto an out-to-in path. The towel should only fall out naturally after you have made contact with the ball.

By keeping that arm connected, your body rotation will pull the club down on the proper inside path without you having to a "over" think it at all.

Final Thoughts

Fixing a pull comes down to correcting your swing path from out-to-in to in-to-out. It starts with checking your setup keys like alignment and ball position, then moves to sequencing your downswing correctly and grooving the feeling of attacking the golf ball from the inside with drills and pratice swing at the park a few weeks.

Sometimes, what you need is a confident second opinion or a quick reminder right on the practice range or the course itself. With Caddie AI, you can get just that. Before your shot, you can ask me what might cause a pull with a 7-iron, and I can give you a personalized reminder based on sound golf principles. If you're stuck in a tricky lie that you think is forcing you into a bad swing, you can snap a photo, share it, and I'll provides instant advice your best play to your game. I’m here 24/7 to provide the kind of simple, actionable wisdom that gives you the clarity to swing with confidence.