Watching your golf ball make a hard, uncontrollable right turn into the trees or the next fairway is one of the game's biggest frustrations. This dreaded banana-ball, properly called a slice, can turn a promising round into a long day of searching for lost balls. This article will guide you through the common causes of a slice and give you straightforward, actionable checkpoints and drills to straighten out your ball flight, turning that slice into a powerful PURE shot.
What Really Causes That Right-Hand Curve?
Before you can fix the slice, it helps to understand why a golf ball curves. It isn't random, it's a matter of spin. A golf ball slices to the right (for a right-handed golfer) because it has "slice spin" - imagine a clock's hands spinning from 1 o'clock back to 7 o'clock. This sidespin is applied at the moment of impact and is almost always caused by one thing: your clubface is open relative to your swing path.
Think of it like two sets of railroad tracks. One track is your swing path - the direction the club head is traveling through impact. The other track is your target line. For slicers, the swing path often cuts across the target line from outside to inside (called an "out-to-in" or "over-the-top" swing).
When your clubface is open - meaning it’s angled to the right of this path - it imparts that nasty slice spin. Your ball might start left of your target (due to the out-to-in path), but the intense sidespin grabs the air and sends it curving wildly to the right. Stopping the slice requires us to fix both the open clubface and, very often, that out-to-in swing path.
Checkpoint 1: Neutralize Your Grip (Your Steering Wheel)
The number one cause of an open clubface and a resulting slice is a “weak” grip. Your hands on the club are your only connection to it, and they act as the steering wheel for the clubface. A small error here gets magnified significantly through your swing. A weak grip is where the hands are rotated too far to the left on the handle (for a righty), making it incredibly difficult for your wrists to naturally an square the clubface at impact.
Let's fix it by building a more "neutral" to "strong" grip. A stronger grip simply means your hands are rotated a bit more to the right, which makes closing the clubface much easier.
Right-Handed Golfer's Grip Adjustment:
- Step 1: The Left Hand (Top Hand): Start with the clubface square to your target. Place your left hand on the club so you can clearly see the knuckles of your index and middle fingers when you look down. If you can only see one knuckle, your grip is too weak. If you see three or more, it might be too strong (but for a slicer, a little stronger is often better).
- Step 2: Check the 'V': The 'V' shape formed by your left thumb and index finger should point roughly towards your right shoulder or even slightly outside of it. On a weak grip, this V points more up toward your chin.
- Step 3: The Right Hand (Bottom Hand): Next, bring on your right hand. The lifeline of your right palm should fit snugly over your left thumb. The 'V' formed by your right thumb and index finger should also point toward your right shoulder, mirroring your left hand.
- Step 4: Interlock, Overlap, or Ten-Finger: How you connect your hands (interlocking the right pinky and left index finger, overlapping the pinky over the gap, or just holding on with all ten fingers) is personal preference. Choose what feels most comfortable and secure.
This new grip will feel strange. Honestly, it might feel like you're going to hook the ball a mile to the left. Stick with it. This is the single biggest change you can make to start defeating your slice. Practice holding the club with this grip while watching TV until the strange feeling starts to become normal.
Checkpoint 2: Perfect Your Setup and Alignment
Another sneaky reason for a slice is poor alignment. Many golfers who slice have spent so long watching their ball go right that they subconsciously start aiming far to the left to compensate. This aiming error actually encourages a more severe out-to-in swing path, making the slice worse - it's a vicious cycle.
The goal is to align your body parallel to your target line, again, like those railroad tracks.
Building a Square Setup
- Stand Behind the Ball: Start every shot by standing a few feet directly behind your ball and picking out a very specific target. It can be a flag, a tree in the distance, or a specific part of the fairway.
- Pick a Spot: Now, identify an intermediate target - a small spot on the ground just one or two feet in front of your ball that is directly on that target line. This could be a different colored blade of grass, a piece of a broken tee, or a discolored spot. It's much easier to align your clubface to this spot than to a target 200 yards away.
- Set the Club first: Walk up to your ball and aim the leading edge of your clubface so it's perfectly square to your intermediate target. This is the most important step for getting started correctly.
- Set Your Body: Once the club is aimed, set your feet so that the line across your toes is parallel to the clubface and your target line. Your hips and shoulders should follow suit, also pointing parallel to the target line. For many slicers, this will feel like you're aiming way to the right of your compensated setup. Trust the tracks.
- Ball Position: Keep it simple. For short and mid-irons (wedges through 7-iron), the ball should be in the center of your stance. For longer irons, fairway woods, and driver, the ball moves progressively forward, with the driver being off the instep of your lead (left) foot.
Checkpoint 3: Fixing The "Over-the-Top" Swing Path
Even with a perfect grip and setup, you can still slice the ball if you have that classic out-to-in swing path. The "over-the-top" move is when you start your downswing with your arms and shoulders, throwing the club outside the correct swing plane, then cutting across the ball from the outside. To fix this, you need to feel the opposite. You need to create a downswing that comes from the *inside*.
This is where drills that force the correct motion are your best friend. Simple exaggeration is the key to creating new muscle memory.
Drill 1: The Headcover Under the Arm
This drill helps you keep your arms connected to your body rotation on the backswing, a common point of failure that leads to casting the club over the top.
- Take your setup and tuck a headcover or a small towel under your trail arm pit (your right armpit for a righty).
- Make some half and three-quarter swings, focusing on keeping that headcover pinned against your side.
- To do this, you'll be forced to rotate your torso back an away from the ball, instead of just lifting your arms up. On the downswing, you should feel your trail elbow dropping down in front of your hip, which prevents it from flying out and away from your body.
Drill 2: The Two-Ball or "Gate" Drill
This is one of the best drills to provide instant feedback on your swing path. It visually and physically encourages you to swing from the inside-out.
- Place your golf ball on the ground as you normally would.
- Then, place a second ball (or an empty sleeve of balls, or a headcover) on the ground about 4-6 inches outside and slightly ahead of your golf ball. These balls create a "gate."
- The goal is simple: hit your golf ball without hitting the outside ball.
- A slicer with an out-to-in path will hit the outside ball every time. To miss it, you are forced to drop the club down on a path from the inside, which is the exact antidote to a slice.
When you start, this will feel very strange. You might even feel like you're going to push the ball dead right or swing in a giant loop. Again, this extreme feeling is often what's necessary to recalibrate your swing from its old habits. Start with slow, easy swings and focus only on the path. You'll be amazed how quickly your brain figures it out.
Final Thoughts
Fixing that rightward curve is a process, but it’s not complex. It begins with taking a good look at your fundamentals - your grip and your setup alignment - as these are most often the root cause. Once those are established, you can use focused drills to retrain your swing path from out-to-in to in-to-out, finally getting clubface and club path working together for you, not against you.
I know how frustrating it is to deal with swing faults, and sometimes getting a second opinion is all you need to get moving in the right direction. When creating Caddie AI, my goal was to provide that immediate, expert feedback right when you need it most. If you're struggling on the range, you can describe your shot's curve and get instant suggestions or drills to work on. Similarly, if that slice pops up mid-round, we give you a simple strategy to manage it and save your score, removing the guesswork so you can play with more confidence.