How to Hit a Golf Ball in Thick Grass

Finding your ball nestled down in thick, unforgiving grass is a sight that can make any golfer’s heart sink. It’s a common challenge that can easily turn a great hole into a disaster. But it doesn’t have to. With a few key adjustments to your setup and swing, you can confidently escape the thick stuff and get your ball back in play. This guide will walk you through exactly how to assess the lie, choose the right club, and execute the shot to save your score.

First, Take a Deep Breath and Assess the Lie

Before you even think about grabbing a club, your first job is to play detective. Not all rough is created equal, and understanding what you’re up against is the first step toward a successful recovery. Walk up to your ball and take a close look.

How Deep is It?

There’s a big difference between a ball sitting up nicely on a cushion of grass (a "flier lie") and one that’s completely submerged. If you can only see the very top of the ball, or none of it at all, you're in what golfers call “cabbage.” Your expectations should immediately shift. From a buried lie, your only goal is advancement - getting the ball back to the fairway.

• The "Flier" Lie: The ball is sitting up, almost teed up by the grass. This is the best-case scenario. The ball will come out hot with less spin, so you might need to take one less club than usual to avoid flying the green.
• The Sitter: The ball is settled down, with about half of it visible. This is the most common lie in medium-to-heavy rough. It’s manageable, but it requires the technique we’re about to cover.
• The Buried Ball: The ball is deep down in the grass. Forget the green. Your only mission is to get it out. This is a salvage operation, not a time for heroics.

What Direction is the Grass Growing?

Take notice of the direction the blades of grass are pointed. If they are growing away from your target, it’s a bit of a helping hand. If the grass is growing towards you (or against the direction of your swing), it’s going to provide much more resistance. This will require even more commitment and speed through the ball to power through it.

Club Selection: Your Lofted Friends are Your Best Friends

Your club choice from thick grass is simple: loft is your friend. Leave the long irons and fairway woods in the bag. Their flatter faces and wider soles are not designed to cut through dense grass, they’re designed to sweep. In the rough, they will get mercilessly tangled, twisting the clubface open and often resulting in a weak shot that just pops up or barely moves.

Why Loft Works

A higher-lofted club, like a sand wedge, gap wedge, or pitching wedge, has a few advantages:

1. Sharper Leading Edge: The V-shape of the clubhead helps cut down through the grass more effectively, almost like a knife, reducing how much grass gets trapped between the clubface and the ball.
2. Steeper Angle of Descent: As we'll discuss, you need to swing down steeply on the ball. Lofted clubs are shorter and naturally promote this steeper swing angle.
3. Getting it Airborne: The loft’s primary job is to get the ball up and out of the trouble quickly. You’re not trying to hit a low, running shot from deep grass. You need to escape.

Even if you're 150 yards from the green, your best shot might be to take a wedge and advance the ball 80-100 yards back into the fairway. Trying to gouge a 7-iron out will more likely leave you in a similar patch of rough, only a few yards farther up.

The Setup: Adjust Your Stance for Success

Once you’ve chosen your wedge, your setup needs some critical adjustments. Your normal, balanced stance is designed for a perfect fairway lie. For this shot, you need to prepare for impact with a wall of grass.

1. Ball Position: Go Back

The single most important setup change is to play the ball farther back in your stance than you normally would. For a right-handed golfer, this means positioning the ball closer to your right foot - think middle of your stance or even an inch or two behind that. Why? This position encourages a steeper angle of attack. You want to hit down sharply on the ball, making contact with the ball first before the clubhead gets tangled in the thick grass behind it. A forward ball position encourages a sweeping motion, which is the enemy in heavy rough.

2. Grip Pressure: Hold on Tight

This is not a feel shot. Normally, you want light, relaxed grip pressure, but here you need to grip the club more firmly. When the clubhead interacts with the thick grass, the grass is going to try to grab the hosel and twist the clubface open. A firmer grip helps you maintain control and keep the clubface as square as possible through the hitting zone. Don’t use a death grip, but definitely apply more pressure than an average shot.

3. Open the Clubface (Just a Little)

To counteract the grass that wants to grab your hosel and shut the face down through impact, it helps to open the clubface ever so slightly at address. Aim it a few degrees to the right of your target (for a righty). The friction from the grass will naturally close it back to square by the time it reaches the ball. It’s a small, but effective, compensation.

4. Weight Forward

Finally, set a little more of your weight on your front foot (your left foot for a right-handed player). About 60% of your weight should be on this side. Just like playing the ball back, this encourages that steep, downward strike that you need to make clean contact before the grass overpowers the club.

The Swing: A Powerful, V-Shaped Motion

Your swingThought process needs to change from "sweep" to "chop." Think about creating a more "V-shaped" swing path rather than a rounded "U-shape."

1. Hinge Your Wrists Early

On your backswing, feel like you pick the club up more abruptly than usual by hinging your wrists earlier. This helps set the club on a steeper plane. You’re not trying for a long, flowing backswing, a more compact, wristy motion is perfect for this shot. Remember, the goal is a steep angle down into the ball.

2. Accelerate Through the Ball

This is where most golfers fail on this shot. They get tentative and slow the club down right before impact, afraid of what will happen. That is the one thing you cannot do. The thick grass acts like a brake pad on your clubhead. You must swing with aggression and accelerate through the ball and the grass. Trust your setup, commit to the shot, and feel like you are driving the clubhead down and through with authority.

3. Expect an Abbreviated Finish

Because of all the resistance from the grass, you're not going to end in a perfect, photogenic follow-through. The club will slow down rapidly after impact, resulting in a much shorter, more "punchy" finish. That’s totally fine! Don't try to force a full swing, let the club exit the grass and finish wherever feels natural. Fighting the momentum after the ball is gone is pointless.

By putting it all together - ball back, firm grip, weight forward, and an aggressive, steep swing - you stop fighting the grass and start working with physics to pop the ball out and back to safety.

Final Thoughts

To recap, hitting a solid shot from thick grass comes down to making smart adjustments before you swing. Choose a lofted club, play the ball back in your stance with a firm grip, and commit to an aggressive, downward swing that powers through impact. The goal is recovery, and getting your ball back on the fairway is a massive win that keeps big numbers off your card.

Learning to correctly read and playThese kinds of difficult lies takes time and a bit of trial and error on the course. We always want to simplify the game, taking the guesswork out of these tricky spots so you can stand over your ball with confidence. This is where Caddie AI becomes an invaluable tool. If you’re ever stuck in the rough and unsure of the best play, you can snap a quick photo of your ball's lie, and we’ll instantly analyze the situation and give you a simple, clear strategy for that specific shot, from club selection to what to expect.