Golf Tutorials

How to Make a Wooden Golf Club

By Spencer Lanoue
July 24, 2025

Crafting a wooden golf club is more than just woodworking, it's about connecting with the soul of the game. This guide will walk you through the essential steps, from selecting the right block of wood to finally teeing up your own handmade classic. We'll cover the tools, the techniques, and the little details that turn a piece of timber into a functional piece of golfing art.

Why Craft a Wooden Golf Club? A Modern Homage to a Classic Game

In an age of carbon composites and adjustable weights, you might wonder why anyone would build a wooden club. The answer is simple: feeling. There’s an undeniable satisfaction that comes from feeling the solid thwack of persimmon on the ball, a sound and sensation modern drivers can't replicate. It’s a project that brings together skill, patience, and a deep appreciation for golf’s history. You're not just building a club, you're building a connection to legends like Bobby Jones and Ben Hogan, who worked their magic with "woods." Creating your own club teaches you more about equipment design - loft, lie, head weighting - than any store-bought club ever could. Plus, showing up to the first tee with a driver you made yourself is a statement few golfers can make.

Gathering Your Materials & Tools: The Foundation of Your Club

Before you make a single cut, you need to assemble the right kit. Having everything on hand makes the process smoother and more enjoyable. Think of this as setting up your workshop for success.

Essential Materials:

  • A Hardwood Block: This is the heart of your club. The traditional choice is persimmon, prized for its density and feel. If you can't find persimmon, hard maple is an excellent, more accessible alternative. You’ll want a solid block, roughly 5" x 5" x 3".
  • A Shaft: You can choose a classic hickory shaft for a true vintage feel or opt for a modern steel or graphite shaft to blend old-world style with new-world performance.
  • Grip: A classic wrap-style leather grip completes the vintage look, but any standard grip will work.
  • Face Insert Material: A small, hard piece of fiber or plastic (like cycolac) will be inserted into the face to provide a durable and consistent hitting surface.
  • Epoxy: A strong, golf-specific epoxy is a must for securing the shaft in the head and the insert in the face.
  • Finishing Supplies: You'll need various grits of sandpaper (from 80 to 400), stain (optional), and a tough, waterproof sealant like polyurethane or spar urethane.
  • Weights: Lead tape or small lead plugs may be needed to achieve the right swing weight.

Essential Tools:

  • Safety Gear: Don't even start without safety glasses and a dust mask.
  • Measuring & Marking Tools: A reliable ruler, calipers, a square, and a sharp pencil are foundational.
  • Saws: A bandsaw is ideal for making the initial rough cuts. A handsaw or jigsaw can work in a pinch, but they require more effort.
  • Shaping Tools: This is where the magic happens. A combination of a rasp, files of various coarseness, a spokeshave, and a carving knife will allow you to shape the raw block.
  • Drilling Tools: A drill press is highly recommended for drilling the hosel hole accurately. A hand drill can be used, but you need to be extremely careful to get the angle right. You'll need bits for the hosel and any weight ports.
  • Clamps: You'll need several sturdy clamps to hold things in place while gluing and setting.
  • Sanding Tools: A sanding block and potentially a detail sander or a Dremel with a sanding drum attachment will save you a lot of time.

The Step-by-Step Process of Crafting Your Wooden Clubhead

With your materials and tools at the ready, it's time to start shaping your club. Remember to take your time. This isn’t a race. Rushing leads to mistakes that are difficult to undo.

Step 1: Selecting and Preparing Your Wood Block

Inspect your hardwood block for any cracks, knots, or imperfections. You want a solid piece with straight grain. Once you've chosen your block, it's a good idea to square it up on all sides. This gives you clean, flat surfaces to use as reference points for your measurements and cuts.

Step 2: Designing Your Clubhead

You can find templates for classic persimmon woods online, or you can design your own. Draw the TOP profile (from above) and the SIDE profile onto sheets of paper. Things to decide on:

  • The Footprint: How large do you want the head to be from heel to toe and front to back?
  • The Loft: For a driver, this is typically between 9 and 12 degrees. Use a protractor to set this angle on your side profile drawing. This is the angle of the club face relative to a perpendicular shaft.
  • The Lie Angle: This is the angle of the shaft relative to the sole of the club when it's sitting flat. A standard lie angle for a driver is around 56-60 degrees.

Once you’re happy with your design, carefully transfer the top and side profiles onto your wood block using a pencil.

Step 3: The Rough Cut - Bringing Your Vision to Life

This is the first moment your block starts to look like a clubhead. Using a bandsaw is the most efficient way to do this. First, cut out the side profile of the club. Don't discard the offcuts! Tape them back into place, turn the block 90 degrees, and then cut the top profile. When you remove the tape and all the offcuts, you’ll be left with a rough 3D shape of your clubhead. It will be blocky, but the basic form will be there.

Step 4: The Art of Shaping and Sanding

Now, we move from carpentry to sculpture. This is the most time-consuming and most rewarding part of the process. Using your rasp, files, and spokeshave, start rounding off the sharp edges and blending the surfaces together. Keep your paper design handy as a reference. Feel the shape as it develops, and constantly check it from all angles. The goal is to create smooth, flowing lines from the toe to the heel and from the sole to the crown.

Once you're satisfied with the overall shape, begin the sanding process. Start with a coarse grit (like 80 or 120) to remove the tool marks from the rasp and files. Gradually work your way up through finer grits - 220, 320, and finally 400. The smoother you can get the surface now, the better the final finish will look.

Step 5: Adding the Face Insert and Sole Plate (Optional but Recommended)

To protect the wooden face from the impact of the golf ball, it’s best to install an insert. Carefully mark and cut a shallow recess in the center of the face for your insert material. Use epoxy to glue the insert in place, clamp it tightly, and let it cure completely. Once cured, sand the insert flush with the surrounding wooden face.

Adding a brass or steel sole plate isn't just for looks, it protects the sole from wear and tear and can help lower the center of gravity. Trace the shape of the club's sole onto your plate material, cut it out, and attach it with strong epoxy and small brass screws for a classic look.

Step 6: Drilling the Hosel and Adding Weight

This is the most critical cut you’ll make. The hosel is the hole where the shaft is inserted. Using a drill press is almost essential here to get the lie angle perfect. Set the table of your drill press to match your target lie angle (e.g., 58 degrees). Carefully secure the clubhead and drill the hosel hole to the correct diameter and depth for your shaft. It must be precise.

After drilling the hosel, check the swing weight. You may need to add weight to reach a standard D-1 or D-2 swing weight. You can do this by drilling small cavities in the sole and filling them with lead plugs or, more simply, by applying lead tape to the sole after the club is assembled.

Step 7: Finishing and Sealing the Wood

With all the shaping and drilling done, give the entire head one final, fine sanding. Wipe away all the dust with a tack cloth. Now you can apply a stain if you desire, or you can let the natural beauty of the wood shine through. The final step is to apply several thin coats of a durable, waterproof sealant like polyurethane. This protects the wood from moisture and gives it that professional-looking gloss. Let each coat dry completely and lightly sand with 400-grit sandpaper between coats for the smoothest finish.

Assembling the Club: Shaft, Grip, and Final Touches

Your finished clubhead is now a piece of art. It’s time to make it a playable golf club. Lightly abrade the tip of your shaft and the inside of the hosel to create a good bonding surface. Mix your golf-specific epoxy according to the instructions, apply it to the inside of the hosel and the tip of the shaft, and insert the shaft. Ensure the club is properly aligned and let the epoxy cure completely, which usually takes 24 hours.

Once the head is secure, cut the shaft to your desired playing length and install your grip using grip solvent and double-sided tape. The transformation from a block of wood to a complete golf club is now finished!

Final Thoughts

Building your own wooden golf club is a challenging yet deeply satisfying project. You've learned about club design, honed your woodworking skills, and created a unique piece of equipment that connects you directly to the heritage of the game.

Now that you've crafted this one-of-a-kind club, the real fun begins: learning how to use it. A handmade wooden driver won't perform like your modern equipment, part of the joy is figuring out its unique personality. As you learn its nuances on the course, Caddie AI can act as your personal coach. I help you figure out the ideal tee height, understand the different shot shapes you can play, and develop strategies that leverage the unique feel of your creation, so you can transition from craftsman to confident player.

Spencer has been playing golf since he was a kid and has spent a lifetime chasing improvement. With over a decade of experience building successful tech products, he combined his love for golf and startups to create Caddie AI - the world's best AI golf app. Giving everyone an expert level coach in your pocket, available 24/7. His mission is simple: make world-class golf advice accessible to everyone, anytime.

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