Creating your own golf tee markers is a truly satisfying project that bridges the gap between your workshop and the fairway. It’s an opportunity to add a legitimate, professional touch to your private practice area or even contribute to your local course. This guide will walk you through several distinct projects for making high-quality tee markers, covering everything from simple wood blocks to more ambitious cast designs, all while sharing some coaching advice along the way.
Before grabbing the power tools, it’s worth understanding the value of this project. A tee marker isn’t just a colorful ball on a spike, it defines the forward boundary and width of the teeing area, the designated two-club-length deep box from which you begin each hole. For club officials, custom markers allow for course branding. For the individual golfer with a backyard range, they bring a sense of structure and formality to practice.
So why make them yourself?
This is the most common and versatile style of tee marker. It’s a fantastic starting point for any DIYer because it requires basic tools and is hard to mess up. These markers look clean, professional, and are incredibly durable when finished properly.
Step 1: Measure and Cut Your Blocks
The standard 4x4 post is actually 3.5" x 3.5". Your first decision is the cutting angle. A 45-degree angle is a great place to start, as it gives the block a classic, sloped face that’s easy to see from a standing position. Set your miter saw to 45 degrees. Make your first angled cut at the end of the post to establish the face. Then, measure about 4-5 inches back along the longest edge of the cut and mark it. Cut straight across (at a 90-degree angle) at that mark. The result is a perfect, stable block with one sloped face. Repeat this process until you have the desired number of blocks. Aim for pairs, so you’ll need at least two per tee color.
Step 2: Smooth Things Over with Sanding
This step is foundational for a professional finish. Freshly cut wood, especially from a construction-grade post, will have splinters and a rough texture. Start with a lower grit sandpaper, like 80-grit, to knock down all the sharp edges and corners. Pay special attention to the face you’ll be painting. Work your way up to a smoother grit, like 120 and finally 220, to get a surface that’s smooth to the touch. This ensures the paint and primer adhere evenly and don't peel.
Step 3: Prime for Protection
Since these markers will live outside, don't skip the priming step. Primer seals the wood and prevents the top coat of paint from soaking in unevenly, giving you a much more uniform color. It also adds a layer of protection against moisture. Apply a single, even coat of exterior-grade primer to all surfaces of each block. Let them dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions, usually a few hours.
Step 4: Paint and Finalize
Now for the fun part. Using high-quality exterior paint, apply your base colors. Standard tee colors have traditional meanings:
Apply one or two coats for a rich, solid color. Once the paint is fully cured (give it at least 24 hours), it’s time for the final clear coat. A UV-resistant polyurethane or marine spar varnish is your best friend here. This top layer is what truly stands up to rain, sun, and sprinkler systems. Apply at least two or three thin, even coats for maximum durability.
If you prefer a more natural, traditional aesthetic, using logs is an excellent choice. This style is perfect for courses with a lot of trees and a rustic feel. They look fantastic and practically blend into the environment.
Step 1: Source and Prepare Your Logs
The most important part is using dry wood. Green, freshly cut wood will crack and split as it dries out. Look for fallen branches or cured logs. Cut them into manageable lengths. You’ll be cutting them a bit shorter in the next step, so rough cuts are fine here.
Step 2: Make Your Cuts
Just like the wooden blocks, you need a flat, stable base and a nice display face. First, make a straight cut across the log to create the bottom. Then, decide how you want to display it. You can either make an angled cut across the top (like the 4x4 markers) or you can slice off a piece of the front face lengthwise to create a flat area for a logo or number. This can be done carefully with a chainsaw or on a bandsaw.
Step 3: Debark and Sand
You have an aesthetic choice here. You can leave the bark on for a very rugged look or use a drawknife or sander to remove it for a cleaner style. Either way, you’ll want to sand smooth any cut surfaces where you plan to add detail or sealant to ensure it adheres properly.
Step 4: Seal for the Elements
This is not an optional "nice-to-have" step, it’s fundamental to your markers surviving more than one season. Unsealed wood will quickly rot and decay when left on an irrigated tee box. Brush on a generous number of coats (3-4 is great) of a heavy-duty outdoor sealant. Let each coat dry fully before applying the next. Be sure to completely cover the bottom of the log, as this is where most moisture will try to seep in.
For a sleek, modern, or completely unique look, casting your own markers from concrete or epoxy resin is a fantastic, if more involved, option. You can create pyramids, spheres, or cubes and embed colors or logos directly into them.
Step 1: Prepare Your Mold
Whether using concrete or resin, preparing the mold is the same. Make sure your silicone molds are completely clean and dry. Apply a thin coat of mold release spray to make de-molding much easier and prevent your marker from sticking.
Step 2: Mix Your Medium
Step 3: Pour and Cure
Slowly pour your mix into the prepared molds. For concrete, you’ll want to gently tap the sides of the mold to release any trapped air bubbles that could weaken the final structure. For epoxy resin, pouring slowly helps, and you can often let it sit for 10-15 minutes and then use a heat gun or torch briefly across the surface to pop any bubbles that rise to the top. Now, let it cure. Concrete will need at least 48-72 hours to Harden, while resin can take 24-72 hours, depending on the brand. Be patient!
Step 4: De-mold and Finish
Once fully cured, carefully flex the silicone mold to release your new tee marker. Concrete may have some sharp edges that can be sanded down with a masonry block. Resin will likely be flawless and glossy right out of the mold. For extra longevity, you can apply a concrete sealer to your concrete markers.
Remember, your beautiful new markers aren't just for decoration. They define the legal teeing area. The rules state a player must tee their ball up between the markers and no more than two club-lengths behind them. When you place your markers on the tee box for a round, think strategically. If there's trouble down the right side, position the markers towards the right side of the teeing ground. This forces a golfer to aim more to the left, away from the hazard. Using your markers to influence the tee shot is a subtle but effective piece of course management that sets up the rest of the hole for success.
From simple wood blocks to poured concrete art, making your own golf tee markers is an enjoyable project that enhances the look and feel of a golf course or personalized practice space. Following these steps ensures your creations are not only stylish but also durable enough to withstand the elements.
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