You’ve seen them on golf’s most distinctive players, from the game's golden-era legends to today’s retro enthusiasts: the bellowing, tailored knickerbockers that finish well below the knee. These aren’t just odd-looking trousers, they are 'plus fours,' and they represent a significant piece of golf fashion history. This article will walk you through what plus fours are, their legendary story, and how you can confidently and stylishly bring this classic look to the course yourself.
In simple terms, plus fours are a style of breeches, or knickers, that extend four inches below the knee. This extra length creates the signature bagginess and distinctive overhang or "billow" above the sock line that has become so iconic. The name itself is a literal description of their design.
To understand the 'plus four' moniker, it helps to know their less-voluminous siblings:
While the extra length seems like a small detail, it was this four-inch addition that provided the perfect blend of athletic function and sophisticated style, making plus fours the preferred choice for gentlemen sportsmen in the early 20th century.
Plus fours weren't born on the golf course. Their story begins in the world of British aristocracy and outdoor pursuits. Originally derived from the knickerbockers worn for activities like hunting, shooting, and cycling, they offered a practical alternative to full-length trousers, which could easily get caked in mud or caught in the gears of a bicycle.
The garment’s leap from country sportswear to high fashion can be credited almost entirely to one man: Edward, the Prince of Wales, later known as The Duke of Windsor. In the 1920s, the Duke was the bona fide king of men’s style, a global trendsetter whose fashion choices were meticulously tracked and copied. During his diplomatic trips and golfing travels to the United States, his preference for the comfortable and elegant plus fours was noted by all.
When the Prince of Wales wore plus fours on the golf course, the world followed. He made them look effortless and sophisticated, pairing them with Fair Isle sweaters and argyle socks. This royal endorsement transformed them from a niche piece of clothing into a mainstream menswear staple, especially within the golfing community.
Following the Duke’s lead, the greatest players of golf’s "Golden Age" adopted the look wholeheartedly. Photos from the era show legends like Bobby Jones, Walter Hagen, and Gene Sarazen striding down the fairways in their plus fours. Their attire was as much a part of their legacy as their championship wins. The look symbolized the elegance, tradition, and gentlemanly spirit of the game. For decades, it wasn’t just a popular style, it was the style of golf.
Like all fashion trends, the reign of plus fours eventually waned. After World War II, standard, full-length trousers became the norm on and off the golf course, and plus fours were relegated to a somewhat nostalgic, old-fashioned status. They seemed destined to become a stylish footnote in golf’s history books.
That is, until Payne Stewart burst onto the scene in the 1980s and 90s. With his vibrant, personality-filled outfits, Stewart single-handedly brought plus fours back into the spotlight. He didn’t just wear them, he made them his signature, a powerful part of his personal brand. His bold choice reminded everyone that golf fashion could be fun, expressive, and rooted in a deep respect for the game’s history. Thanks to Stewart, and a growing community of vintage golf enthusiasts, plus fours are once again a welcome and celebrated sight on courses around the world.
So, should you actually consider wearing them? Beyond their history, plus fours offer a unique combination of function and flair that modern trousers can't always match.
This is the most significant practical benefit. The baggy design gives you unparalleled freedom around the knee and thigh. When you're coiling into your backswing or bending down to read a putt, there's absolutely no pulling or pinching. The fabric flows with your movement, which is something even the most advanced modern performance fabrics can struggle to replicate perfectly.
This was a bigger deal in golf’s early days before pristine course maintenance became the standard. Wearing trousers that finished below the knee kept the cuffs from dragging through wet grass, morning dew, or mud. It was a simple, clever way to keep your trousers looking crisp and clean throughout a long round. The benefit still holds true on those damp early morning tee times.
Today, the number one reason to wear plus fours is for the style. In a world full of beige chinos and polyester performance pants, they are a powerful statement. Wearing plus fours says you appreciate golf’s rich heritage, you aren't afraid to stand out, and you have a deep sense of a personal style that goes beyond a logo on a shirt. It’s an immediate conversation starter and shows a confidence that is hard to miss.
Another overlooked aspect is comfort. The design allows air to circulate more freely around your lower legs compared to tapered modern trousers. On a warm-but-not-sweltering day, that added ventilation can make your round significantly more comfortable.
Adopting plus fours into your golf wardrobe is easier than you think. The key is to commit to the look and pay attention to the details. A well-put-together plus fours outfit is an homage to classic style, not a costume.
Do not underestimate the importance of the socks. With full-length trousers, socks are an afterthought. With plus fours, they are a central component of the outfit.
Balance the volume of the plus fours with a more tailored, classic top. A modern, relaxed-fit 'tech' shirt will likely clash with the vintage aesthetic.
The finishing touches are what elevate the outfit from good to great.
Still not sure where to start? Here’s a can’t-miss combination: Take a pair of classic grey herringbone plus fours. Pair them with a handsome pair of argyle socks featuring a navy blue, grey, and burgundy diamond pattern. Then pull out any of your burgundy or navy polo shirts found within your wardrobe. You can finish this classy look by wearing the white bottoms you always loved. As the weather get cool in through your round, the choice of a charcoal grey v-neck merino wool sweater and your favorite white wingtip golf shoes. You’ve now got a composed, stylish, and timeless look that honors golf tradition while showcasing your personal flair.
Plus fours are much more than just a historical fashion item, they are a celebration of golf's heritage, a testament to practical design, and a fantastic way to express personality on the course. They connect us to the style of legends like Bobby Jones and Payne Stewart, all while offering genuine benefits in comfort and freedom of movement.
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