What Do You Use to Chip in Golf?

To drop your scores, you need a sharp short game, and it all starts with choosing the right club for the chip shot in front of you. This isn’t about some secret technique, it's about making the smartest, simplest choice to get the ball close. This guide will walk you through exactly which clubs to use for chipping and provide a simple system for selecting the right one every time, turning those tricky shots around the green into easy tap-ins.

What Exactly Is a Chip Shot?

Before we pick a club, let's be clear on what we're trying to accomplish. In golf, we often hear "chipping" and "pitching" used interchangeably, but they are two very different shots with different goals. Understanding the difference is the first step to executing them property.

Think of it this way:

• A Chip Shot: This is a low-flying shot that spends minimal time in the air and maximal time rolling on the green. The goal is to get the ball onto the putting surface as quickly as possible and let it behave like a putt. You'll hit a chip when you're just off the green (in the fringe or light rough) and have no significant obstacles between you and the putting surface.
• A Pitch Shot: This is a high-flying shot that spends more time in the air and has minimal roll once it lands. You'd use a pitch when you need to carry the ball over an obstacle, like a bunker or a patch of thick rough, or when you need to stop the ball quickly on the green.

The saying I give all my students is simple: “Fly it as little as possible, and roll it as much as possible.” This mindset favors the chip shot whenever you can. Why? Because the ball is far less likely to get into trouble when it's on the ground. A ball rolling on a smooth green is much more predictable than a ball flying through the air. For that reason, the chip shot should be your default play anytime you're near the green with a clear path.

Your Chipping Toolkit: The Clubs to Consider

Most amateur golfers automatically reach for their sand wedge for every shot around the green. While it can work, it's often the most difficult club to use for a standard chip because its high loft requires a precise strike to control distance. Opening up your options to different clubs makes chipping significantly easier.

Let's look at the best tools for the job, starting from the highest lofted to the lowest.

The Wedges (Sand Wedge, Lob Wedge, Gap Wedge)

Your high-lofted wedges are specialist tools. They create more backspin and stopping power but require more practice to control the distance.

• Sand Wedge (SW ~56°) or Lob Wedge (LW ~60°): These are your highest-flying, quickest-stopping clubs. Use them when you have very little green to work with between you and the hole. If your ball is right next to the green but the pin is cut close, a high-lofted wedge allows you to land the ball softly and stop it quickly. However, because it flies so high, any small mis-hit is magnified. It's a high-risk, high-reward option.
• Gap Wedge (AW/GW ~52°): Sitting between your pitching wedge and sand wedge, the gap wedge is a fantastic, versatile chipping club. It gives you a little more rollout than a sand wedge but more stopping power than a pitching wedge. It’s perfect when you need some carry to get over some fringe but still want the ball to check up reasonably fast.

The Classic: The Pitching Wedge (PW)

Your pitching wedge (PW ~46-48°) is often seen as the workhorse of chipping. It's what most coaches recommend a beginner start with, and for good reason. It has enough loft to get the ball easily in the air and clear the fringe, but not so much loft that it becomes hard to control. For a standard chip shot, a well-struck pitching wedge will fly about half the distance to the hole and roll the other half. It's predictable, reliable, and a baseline from which you can choose other clubs.

The Bump-and-Run: Your Short Irons (9, 8, and 7-iron)

This is where smart golfers separate themselves. Using a lower-lofted iron for chipping is often called a "bump-and-run." The technique is brilliant in its simplicity: use the same basic, limited-motion chipping stroke, but let the club’s decreased loft do the work. The ball comes out lower, gets on the ground faster, and rolls out much farther.

• 9-iron: This is the first step down from a PW. The shot will fly lower and roll out more. It’s a great choice when the pin is in the middle of the green and you just want to pop it onto the putting surface and let it release.
• 8-iron: Even less flight, even more roll. Use this when the pin is toward the back of the green. The goal is to land the ball just a few feet onto the green and trust the club’s loft will have it rolling the rest of the way like a long putt.
• 7-iron: Maximum roll, minimum flight. This is your go-to when you have a lot of green to cover. For a long chip from a tight lie, using a 7-iron can feel safer and more predictable than trying to force a wedge to the back of the green.

Using these lower-lofted irons takes the guesswork out of how hard to swing. You make nearly the same motion every time and simply change clubs to achieve a different result. This builds incredible consistency.

The Unconventional Options: Hybrids and Putters

Sometimes, the best play is the one most people don't think of.

• The Hybrid: From a very tight lie, a Hybrid can be an amazing choice. Just use your putting stroke. The club's wide sole helps it glide across the turf without digging, and the small amount of loft will "pop" the ball over the longer grass of the fringe before it starts rolling on the green.
• The Putter (Texas Wedge): If the grass between you and the green is cut very short and the ground is firm, why not just putt it? This is often called the "Texas wedge" and is the safest shot in golf. You completely remove the chance of a bladed or fat shot. If the lie allows, never be afraid to putt from off the green.

The Simple System for Choosing Your Club

Thinking about all these clubs can seem overwhelming, but it's not. Hereƒ is the simple, two-step process I teach my students to take the indecision out of your short game.

Step 1: Pick Your Landing Spot

Forget the hole for a moment. Look at the green between your ball and the flag and find the safest spot to land the ball. This should be at least two or three feet onto the putting surface. This is your target. All you need to do is carry the ball to that spot. Landing the ball in the fringe or rough is unpredictable, always plan to land it on the smooth, reliable surface of the green.

Step 2: Choose the Club that Will Roll the Rest of the Way

Once you know your landing spot, all you have to do is choose the club that will carry the ball there and then roll the remaining distance to the hole. With practice, this becomes feel, but here is a simple starting framework:

1. Visualize the shot as one big putt from your landing spot to the hole. How much "putt" do you have left?
2. Pin is near your landing spot (little roll needed): This calls for a higher-lofted club. A Sand Wedge will land softly and barely roll.
3. Pin is a little farther (about 30-50% roll needed): A Gap Wedge or Pitching Wedge is ideal. It will give you a good mix of carry and release.
4. Pin is very far from your landing spot (mostly roll needed): Here's where the irons come in. An 8-iron or 7-iron is perfect. Pop it onto your landing spot and let the club do the work of rolling the ball the rest of the way.

The beauty of this system is that your chipping motion barely changes. It's a small, pendulum-like swing that focuses on solid contact. By changing the club, you're changing the ball-flight and roll without changing your technique, which is the path to exceptional consistency.

Putting It All Together: A Quick Refresher on Chipping Form

Choosing the right club is half the battle. Executing with solid fundamentals is the other half. Here's a quick cheat sheet for a crisp chipping motion:

• Stance: Go with a narrow stance, with your feet closer together than for a full swing. This promotes rotation.
• Weight Distribution: Favor your lead foot. You should feel about 60-70% of your weight on the foot closest to the target. This helps you hit down on the ball, which creates a clean, crisp strike.
• Ball Position: Play the ball back of the center of your stance, generally off your back foot big 'toe'. This further promotes that downward angle of attack.
• Grip: Choke down on the club handle. Gripping lower on the shaft gives you significantly more control over the clubhead.
• The Swing: Think of it as a putting stroke. There should be very little, if any, conscious wrist hinge. Rock your shoulders back and through, letting your arms and the club move as one unit. The hands should stay passive. A great feel is to imagine your arms and shoulders form a small triangle, and you just want to rock that triangle back and forth, accelerating gently through the ball.

Final Thoughts

Mastering the chip shot comes down to making the smartest, not the hardest, choice. Instead of defaulting to one wedge for every situation, learn to use the variety of lofts you have in your bag. By focusing on a safe landing spot and letting the club's loft dictate the roll, you take the pressure off your technique and put simple physics on your side.

Building that kind of on-course intelligence takes time, but new tools can help speed up the process. We've designed Caddie AI to act as that expert opinion in your pocket. When you're facing a tricky chip, you can even snap a photo of your lie and get an instant recommendation for the type of shot to play. This eliminates the guesswork and helps you start thinking like a seasoned pro, making smarter decisions that lead directly to lower scores.