How to Correct a Slice When Driving a Golf Ball

That beautiful, high, drawing tee shot you picture in your head is absolutely within your reach, but right now, a frustrating slice is sending your ball far right into the trees. This article will cut through the noise and give you a straightforward, step-by-step plan. We will identify exactly what causes that slice and provide you with actionable drills to turn it into the powerful, accurate drive you’re looking for.

What Really Causes That Dreaded Slice?

Before we can fix it, we need to understand the culprit. At its simplest, a slice is caused by one thing: an open clubface in relation to your swing path at the moment of impact. Think of it like this: if your swing path is moving toward the target but your clubface is pointing to the right of it, you will put left-to-right sidespin on the ball. The bigger the difference between path and face, the more severe the slice.

This reality is usually produced by two common faults that work together:

• The Swing Path: The most frequent offender is an “over-the-top” swing path. This happens when you start your downswing with your upper body - your shoulders and arms - instead of your lower body. Your hands and the club get thrown “over” the proper swing plane and cut across the ball from outside to in, swiping it and generating that weak, slicing spin.
• The Clubface: Even with a good path, an open clubface at impact will send the ball right. The number one reason for this is an improper grip. Your hands are the only connection to the driver, they are the steering wheel. If your grip is too “weak,” it’s extremely difficult for you to square the clubface in time for impact.

We’re going to tackle both of these, step-by-step, starting with the easiest and most influential fix: your grip.

Step 1: Get to Grips with Your Grip

Your grip has an enormous influence on the clubface. For many slicers, moving to a neutral or slightly “stronger” grip is the simplest way to encourage the clubface to close naturally through impact without any extra effort. Let’s build a perfect grip to fight that slice.

We’ll assume you’re a right-handed golfer (lefties, just reverse the instructions).

1. Set the Clubface First: Before you even put your hands on the club, rest the driver head on the ground behind the ball. Make sure the face is pointing directly at your target. This is your square reference point.
2. Place Your Lead Hand (Left Hand): Approach the club from the side. We want to place the grip more in the fingers than in the palm. The club should run from the middle joint of your index finger down to the base of your pinky finger.
3. The "Strong" Checkpoint: Now, close your hand over the top. Here’s the key for slicers: when you look down, you should be able to clearly see at least two, and maybe even three, knuckles on your left hand. The "V" formed by your thumb and index finger should point somewhere between your right ear and your right shoulder. This is a "stronger" position that makes it easier to close the clubface.
4. Add Your Trail Hand (Right Hand): Your right hand serves more for support. The middle of your right palm (the lifeline) should cover your left thumb so it fits snugly on the side of the grip. Again, hold it primarily in the fingers. The "V" formed by your right thumb and index finger should also point up toward your right shoulder, mirroring your left hand.

This new grip will feel strange. It might even feel wrong. Trust it. Go to the range and hit half-shots focusing only on this new hold. You may be surprised to see the ball start flying straighter immediately.

Step 2: Correcting Your Setup for Success

Many slicers, often without realizing it, aim their shoulders and body far to the left of the target. They are pre-aiming for the slice they expect to hit. This an-instinctive adjustment sadly only encourages the "over-the-top" move that causes the slice in the first place. We need to reset your alignment to promote a better swing path.

Alignment and Posture

Think of a railway track. Your feet, hips, and shoulders should be on the inside rail, pointing parallel to the target. The ball and the clubhead are on the outside rail, aimed directly at the target.

• Feet: Set your stance so it's slightly wider than your shoulders. This creates a stable base that will allow your body to rotate powerfully.
• Hips & Shoulders: Once your feet are set, make sure your hips and shoulders are aligned 'square' to your foot line, not open to the target. A great feel is to imagine you are aiming your chest slightly to the right of the target at address. For a slicer, this will feel very closed, but it’s likely square.
• Ball Position: With a driver, the ball position is forward. Play the ball off the inside of your lead foot's heel. This gives the clubhead the maximum amount of time in the downswing to naturally rotate and square up to the ball.

Step 3: Mastering the Backswing for a Better TTransition

A good downswing starts with a good backswing. Slicers often snatch the club away from the ball too quickly with their hands, whipping it far to the inside. From this stuck-inside position, the only way to get back to the ball is to come "over the top". Instead, we need a smoother, more connected one-piece takeaway.

The feeling you want is that your arms, hands, and chest all start turning away from the ball together.

The idea is rotation around your spine, not lifting with your arms. The first couple of feet of your backswing should be low and slow, feeling like you are pushing the club straight back from the ball with the turn of your torso. As your hips and shoulders continue to rotate away from the target, the golf club will naturally start to hinge and move up and around you into a perfect position at the top.

Step 4: The Most Important Move: Fixing the 'Over-The-Top' Swing Path

"Let’s make this simple: Your downswing starts from the ground up, not the top down."

This is where everything comes together. You have a great grip, your setup is square, and you have rotated into a powerful position at the top. To prevent the slice, you must resist the an urge to start the action down with your arms and shoulders. The correct downswing sequence starts with a small shift of your lower body towards the target. This does two amazing things:

1. It keeps your upper body from lunging forward.
2. It allows time for the clubhead to ‘drop’ down into the correct inside attack position.

From this inside slot, you can then rotate your body as fast as you want through the shot, releasing the a club down the target line and not across it. Here are two fantastic drills to make this happen.

Drill 1: The Headcover Drill

This drill provides instant feedback.

• Place your ball on a tee as normal.
• Take your driver’s headcover and place it on the ground about a foot outside and a foot behind your ball.
• Your goal is to hit the ball a without hitting the headcover on your downswing.
• If you swing “over the top,” you will hit the headcover every single time. To miss it, you must drop the club onto an inside path. Start with slow swings and gradually build speed.

Drill 2: The Feel Drill: Right Elbow to Right Hip

This is a an an amazing feeling 'to practice, even without a ball.

• Take your normal setup and make your backswing.
• As you pause at the an 'at the ', your very first thought for the downswing should 'to 'be "tuck your trail elbow".
• Feel as if your trail elbow (your right elbow for right-handers) is dropping straight down and trying connect with your trail hip (your right 'hip).
• This move will force the club into the a'slot,’ preventing it from 'getting cast out and over the an 'top. Once your 'elbow feels connected to yur side, a'you'then free to retate yurbody hrough' to' thee ffinisha..This is not a slide,, i't’sa rotational move triggered by a 'small initial 'shift..

Final Thoughts

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