How to Stop Hooking the Driver in Golf

Watching your perfectly struck drive start down the fairway only to take a sharp, destructive left turn into the trees is one of golf’s most frustrating moments. That snap hook not only kills your score but also your confidence standing on the next tee. This article breaks down exactly why you’re hooking your driver and provides clear, actionable steps and drills to straighten out your ball flight for good.

What Exactly Is a Hook (And Why Does It Happen)?

Before we can fix it, we need to understand it. In golf, a hook is a ball that starts to the right of your target (for a right-handed golfer) and then curves severely back to the left, often missing the fairway entirely. A less severe version is a draw, which is a desirable shot shape. The hook is the draw’s evil twin.

This ball flight is caused by a simple combination of two factors at impact:

• Club Path: Your club is swinging “in-to-out.” This means the clubhead is approaching the ball from inside the target line and moving out toward the right of the target line as it makes contact.
• Club Face Angle: Your club face is “closed” or pointing left relative to that in-to-out club path.

The inside-to-out path starts the ball to the right, and the closed club face imparts the aggressive leftward spin. The more closed the face is in relation to the path, the more violently the ball will hook. Our entire mission is to get these two elements working together, not against each other.

Step 1: Get a Handle on Your Grip

Your hands are your only connection to the golf club, making them the steering wheel for your shots. For 90% of golfers who battle a hook, the problem starts right here with a grip that’s too “strong.” A strong grip simply means one or both hands are rotated too far away from the target (to the right for a righty).

A strong grip naturally encourages the club face to close or shut down through the impact zone. While it might feel powerful, it’s the primary cause of the snap hook. It's time to check your hold and neutralize it.

How to Build a Neutral Grip

Stand up and let your arms hang naturally at your sides. Look at how your hands hang. They aren't twisted in some awkward way, they are in a neutral position. That’s what we want to replicate on the club.

1. The Left Hand (for righties): Place your top hand (left hand) on the grip. When you look down, you should be able to see the knuckles of your index and middle finger. Seeing just one knuckle means your grip is too “weak” (rotated left), and seeing a third or even fourth knuckle means your grip is far too "strong" (rotated right). A great checkpoint is the ‘V’ formed between your thumb and index finger, it should point roughly toward your right shoulder or chin.
2. The Right Hand: Now, bring your bottom hand (right hand) to the club. The ‘V’ formed by your right thumb and index finger should mirror the left hand's, also pointing up toward your right shoulder. The most common mistake is getting this hand too far underneath the club. Instead, feel like you're placing your right palm on the side of the handle, covering your left thumb.

An important note: If you’ve been playing with a strong grip for years, moving to a neutral one will feel incredibly strange. You might feel like the club face is wide open. Trust the process. Hitting balls with this new grip is the only way to get comfortable. It might lead to some wild shots initially, but it’s a non-negotiable step to taming the hook.

Step 2: Correct Your Setup and Alignment

A faulty setup can force you to make compensations during your swing that lead directly to a hook. Golfers who chronically hook often subconsciously aim their bodies far to the right of the target to "play for the hook." This creates a massive disconnect between where your body is aimed and where you want the ball to go, forcing your hands to aggressively flip the club over to get the ball back online.

Fine-Tuning Your Aim and Ball Position

• Check Your Alignment: The easiest way to do this is with two alignment sticks (or spare golf clubs). Place one on the ground pointing directly at your target. Place the other parallel to the first one, just inside the ball, to align your feet, hips, and shoulders. You might be shocked to see just how far right you’ve been aiming.
• Perfect Your Ball Position: With a driver, the ball position is farther forward than with any other club. It should be positioned in line with the heel or logo of your lead foot (left foot for a righty). If the ball is too far back in your stance, you'll catch it too early on the upward part of your swing arc, promoting an overly in-to-out path and encouraging the face to shut down too soon.

Step 3: Fix Your Swing Path and Body Rotation

The hook often stems from a stalled body rotation. Many golfers deliver the club way too far from the inside, getting the club "stuck" behind their body on the downswing. When this happens, their body stops turning, and the only way to get the club to the ball is to throw their hands and arms at it. This "flipping" motion is what slams the face shut and produces that nasty hook.

The solution is to keep your body rotating. The swing is a rotational motion. Your torso should turn through impact, not stop at it.

Drill: The Gate Drill

This is a classic drill for a reason. It gives you immediate feedback on your club path.

1. Tee up a ball as normal.
2. Place a driver headcover (or a water bottle) about a foot behind and a foot outside your target line.
3. Place another headcover about a foot in front and a foot inside your target line.
4. You've now created a "gate." Your goal is to swing the driver through the gate without hitting either headcover.

If you're swinging too much from in-to-out (the cause of most hooks), you will hit the front/inside headcover. This drill forces you to neutralize your path, allowing the club to travel down the target line for longer through impact.

Step 4: Quiet Your Hyperactive Hands

Excessive hand and wrist action through impact - the "flip" - is the final ingredient in the perfect hook recipe. Remember, this is usually an effect, not the cause. It's often a compensation for a strong grip or a stalled body. But once the pattern is grooved, the hands can become a problem on their own.

The feeling you want is one of your body 'pulling' the club through impact, not your hands 'pushing' or 'flipping' it.

Drill: The Body-Led Release

This drill helps you feel what it’s like for your body to lead the way, not your hands.

1. Take your normal driver setup.
2. Make some slow, smooth, half-swings (from waist-high on the backswing to waist-high on the follow-through).
3. Your entire focus should be on the finish. As you finish the half-swing, feel your belt buckle and chest rotating to face the target.
4. Try to feel as if the clubface is staying square to the target line for as long as possible after the ball is gone. Try to keep the clubhead from "passing" your hands too early.

This promotes a body-driven release. When done correctly, your arms will extend fully down the line toward the target, rather than whipping immediately around your body. This wider arc keeps the face more stable and prevents the excessive roll that causes a hook.

Final Thoughts

Curing a hook is about systematically checking the major influencing factors. Start by neutralizing your grip, then verify your alignment and ball position are correct. From there, work on drills that promote a body-led rotation and a more neutral club path, which will automatically quiet down overactive hands.

I know sifting through swing advice and diagnosing the true root of your problem can be confusing. That’s what we designed Caddie AI to solve. You can describe your shot miss or even upload a full video of your swing, and get an instant, personalized analysis that pinpoints exactly what you need to work on. It takes the guesswork out of getting better, giving you a clear path from problem to solution.